3.15.2008

Arch@Grass covered building in Seoul, Korea





Architects Minsuk Cho and Kisu Park of Mass Studies designed this grass covered multi-level building to house Belgian fashion designer Ann Demeulemeester’s store in Seoul, South Korea.

The building was completed in October 2007 and uses foliage to cover both the external and internal wall surfaces.

@Source: http://dkdesignstudio.wordpress.com/2008/01/14/grass-covered-building-in-seoul-korea/

Fashion@巴黎時裝週 遊戲幻境

Chanel宛如童話世界般的圓形秀場,經典標誌如雙色鞋、五號香水、山茶花、菱格紋包、斜紋軟呢外套…,都成了「旋轉木馬」的主角。(法新社)

雪紡上衣搭配上及踝的斜紋軟呢長裙。寬版腰帶又回來了。(法新社)

芭蕾舞女輪廓隱喻少女時期的Queen Victoria。(美聯社)

Alexander McQueen此次靈感來自英國殖民印度的19世紀,讓服裝帶有的「紗麗」味。(法新社)

以黑色、灰和白色為主的畫面,覆蓋立體的裙裝線條更加突出。(路透)

藝術品般的頭飾,像老榆木的滄桑,有一股神秘的力量(法新社)

Alexander McQueen王室取材的服裝靈感,與場中央的「老榆木」,一起演譯了冷冽而孤單。(美聯社)

巴黎時裝週帶來新鮮時尚,還有各種跳脫模式、極盡想像力與戲劇張力的藝術幻境。


旋轉木馬的誘惑

Chanel在巴黎大皇宮搭了一座金色的旋轉木馬。更可愛的是,那些旋轉「木馬」,全都換成巨大的Chanel精品。

巨型的山茶花像面牆,而金色菱格紋包包,幾乎跟你一樣高。模特兒可能坐在雙色鞋或手鐲,也可能坐在雙色鞋與鑲著珍珠、CC Logo的大手鐲…,在場的所有人,就像走進Chanel精品遊樂園。

Chanel 剛在香港起跑的Mobile Art方興未艾,巴黎秋冬秀場更給了她製造幻想泉源的場域。設計總監Karl Lagerfeld的時尚魔法,先在模特兒在頭髮上灑上金粉,再讓A-Line為主的線條,以外搭長、內搭短的迷你裙與長至腳踝的外套,在黑、海軍藍、灰 色以及芥墨綠的調和中,帶來一連串的華麗與高貴。

貝蕾帽將是今年秋冬主要的配件;大量膚色加刺繡、滾黑邊的雙色襪、以及粗跟的漆皮瑪麗珍高跟鞋,都是源自20年代、Coco Chanel佳績布料剪裁的兩件式套裝,最新的配件。另外,寬腰帶又回來了!

無庸置疑,這又是Chanel另一個驚人之舉。這個以旋轉木馬裝置,隱喻夢想與歡樂的圓形劇場,不知道裝載了多少女人的期望。尤其當模特兒從伸展台,一個個踏進這個樂園,藝術角度提供攝影鏡頭一個相對性的縮小範圍,那些高挑的模特兒,是不是就像音樂盒中的小玩偶?

撼人的地景藝術

Yves Saint Laurent的秀場很像克里斯多(Christo)與珍克勞德(Jeanne-Claude)的地景藝術(Land Art)。你在秀場看到的那些白牆、由地竄出的支柱,乍看好像硬梆梆,感覺很像硬的雕塑,但它們其實裡頭完全沒有框架,因為這些都是帆布「繃」出來的。

剛 剛說的克里斯多與珍克勞德,是美國地景藝術家。他們夫妻倆以各式布材包裹踢然地形與建築標地為名,包括島嶼海岸、大樓地標與大橋。經他們包裹,這些習以為 常的景象,都造成視覺的震撼效果。從YSL的秀場看來,創意總監Stefano Pilati大概為他的「未來女軍官」系列,做了一個想像中的火星景。

慣用的非洲元素(Safari)消失了。西瓜皮黑髮、黑脣膏取而代之。寬扁型墨鏡遮蓋眼神的行進,高腰、帶著香蕉弧形的褲管、強烈幾何意味的剪裁,層層疊配Pilati的未來主義;黑、灰和白色的畫面,讓覆蓋立體的裙裝,直接展現衣服的立體效果。

YSL這次很結構、很未來的風感受,讓部分時尚評論家聯想Nicolas Ghesquiere之前曾對Balenciaga下的苦心,每一件服裝都如同極力雕塑的工藝品。

印度女王和老榆木

Queen Victoria時代的大英帝國,殖民主義擴張強權。Alexander McQueen冥想那個時代,希望以時尚代替歷史記載的罪,用伸展台彌補許多當初的遺憾。

Alexander McQueen想像一棵上百年的老榆木,就像是個看盡人世繁華與殞落的智者,訴說了從Queen Victoria天真的幼年開始,在樹旁玩耍,從少女成為青少女、青年,到她戴冠登基,以及被宣布成為印度女皇的心路歷程。

McQueen為此曾實際走訪印度,並在回國後關在自己的工作室,像個工作狂似的足不出戶,終於在巴黎時裝週,將他的想像搬上伸展台。

秀 場中央的老榆木,先有像芭蕾舞伶的浪漫與秀麗、像印度傳統服裝、紗麗的民俗風格,後來則漸漸莊嚴的,出現羽毛飾品、紅色披風,圍飾白鼬毛皮、金色刺繡與珠 寶頭冠…,蓬群有泡沫般的摺邊,指向宮廷的奢華;而冷酷的氣質也刻劃了女王的榮耀,宛如Queen Victoria全盛時期的壓軸,在最後掀起高潮。


@Source: http://www.libertytimes.com.tw/2008/new/mar/14/today-style2.htm
記者方惠宗/綜合外電報導

Fashion@巴黎時裝週 魔幻寫實

「Dream On」標語立體浮起,象徵Viktor & Rolf對時尚夢想的堅持。(美聯社)

Balenciaga在膠質般的貼身洋裝,繪上惡魔世界的背景。試圖在純粹、無裝飾的縝密線條中,探索服裝所能帶給身體最大的力量。(歐新社)

模特兒踏著漫長的喀什米爾地毯,也踏上Hermes未走完的印度之旅。設計師Jean Paul Gaultier以大量的絨面料與捲曲羊毛,帶來異國感的尊容華貴。(歐新社)

Christian Lacroix藉打摺讓服裝膨起、有立體感,又配上印花與精靈古怪的圖案。這些愉悅的特質,似乎是他用來捕捉年輕世代的作法。(歐新社)

Miu Miu秀上,模特兒像是戴著泳帽完整秀出整張臉,木訥的表情像是機器娃娃。用雷射切開的空間,讓毛氈洋裝滲透底層的對比色。(法新社)

Dior秀上誇張、特意加大的深邃眼妝,製造了一種如同美國甘迺迪時代的女人,端莊賢淑的戲劇效果。(路透)

細碎印花與皮草緊身外套的搭配實用又華麗。鎖定年輕女孩的Chloe,正繼續在品牌的全盛時期中穩健邁進。(法新社)

塗鴉長袍藏高蹺,法國舞蹈家展特技──這應該是Vivienne Westwood秀上最讓人捏冷汗的一幕。(美聯社)(法新社)

設計師Ivana Omazic加入Celine以來,設計總以現代女性所需的俐落與行動力為訴求。這套多層次雪紡洋裝,被視為新風格的表現。(歐新社)


Hermes搭配綁繩腰帶的洋裝,輕鬆卻亮眼的展現年輕氣息。(歐新社)

設計師把時裝作成藝術品,讓這些「Wearable Art」啟動創意新頁。

時尚的實驗藝術

先看這場讓人「驚驚」的秀:踩著高蹺、穿著如同窗簾披掛的模特兒,是Vivienne Westwood找法國舞者演出的「特技」,用意是想表現秋冬季「叢林生活」的主題。

她從英格蘭諾丁漢(Nottingham)Portland School徵召了七、八歲的小朋友,要小朋友們想像自己是居住在叢林裡、為了保護自己的環境而對抗暖化的戰士,讓他們徒手彩繪出,能融入森林背景而不被發現的衣著。換句話說,這是偽裝用的服裝。

其 實Vivienne Westwood秀上常發生模特兒跌倒事件,而且都摔得不輕。因為她們總得穿上Vivienne女士所設計、奇形怪狀又高陡難耐的高跟鞋。不過, Vivienne Westwood在今年的秋冬巴黎時裝週中,可再沒發生任何讓模特兒跌飛到九霄雲外的駭人場面,原因不在於設計師終於大發慈悲,肯為鞋子減少天馬行空的收 起高度,而是「腳下工夫」更高了。而且,竟然還是高蹺!

因為 Vivienne Westwood「擅摔名模」的前科,讓在場的人為這位「高人」捏了把冷汗。反倒是受邀坐在前排、那些為Vivienne Westwood貢獻天真創意的小童,可是看得津津有味。

相 較於將特技擺在秀場的Vivienne Westwood,喜歡後現代主義與未來議題的設計家,例如Viktor & Rolf、Maison Martin Margiela、Balenciaga、Tsumori Chisato或Junya Watanabe…等,則將人體當作撐起藝術衣裝的支架。

Martin Margiela像太空人的流線緊身裝,給了時尚最成功的實驗性演出;Junya Watanabe用雕塑技巧剪裁服裝,罩上奇怪頭套的模特兒宛如石柱;而Balenciaga膠質洋裝上、壁畫般的惡魔世界,讓人在毫無裝飾的縝密線條 中,也能感受服裝的力量。

Viktor & Rolf不喜歡時尚稍縱即逝的感覺,因此他們直接將「No」、「Dream On」,以招牌般的立體標語,直接鑲在衣服、或是畫Model在臉上,用3D標語反應自己對時尚夢想的堅持。喜歡童話的Tsumori Chisato,則以大面積蓬鬆的漸層摺邊,帶來冬日的花園故事。

美少女時代

特 意加大了模特兒的深邃眼妝,讓「一個眼睛兩個大」,60年代的端莊淑女,具體而強烈的出現眼前。Dior以60年代為主題的秋冬系列,表現歡樂與活力。 Chloe招牌的印花雪紡,也輕柔亮麗的踏著青春舞步…。08秋冬巴黎時裝週帶來實驗性的時尚藝術,更帶來青春美少女的舞曲。

撇開厚重的裝束,大量的洋裝無疑奠定女人在今年秋冬預備要有的浪漫形象。

Chloe 在Paulo Melim Andersson接手之後,更加穩定品牌大受歡迎的地位。碎花透明硬紗與緊身皮草搭配出嶄新風格,加上許多在踝部有翻摺設計的鞋款,簡約又率直的穿搭, 讓人瞬間年輕有活力。Hermes延續印度主題的卵石花紋皮革與粗針羊毛衫固然值得一提,但簡單的洋裝搭配綁繩腰帶,卻不費力氣的激發青春泉源。

Celine從第一套開始,就是一連串的風衣與運動元素,重複性太高、一層不變,讓許多時尚評論家看膩了這種平淡無奇的感受。可是當長禮服、多層次輕柔雪紡紗加上大膽的Print一出現,讓系列整體有輕有重、有硬有柔,馬上讓設計師Ivana Omazic扳回一成。

Miu Miu用雷射切出幾何空間的洋裝,讓生活必備的服裝,也有精細作工。掌握到年輕世代需求的Christian Lacroix,推出許多有立體感摺飾、可愛圖案與刺繡的平肩洋裝──這也是他的得意之作。

@Source: http://www.libertytimes.com.tw/2008/new/mar/14/today-style1.htm
記者方惠宗/綜合外電報導

3.14.2008

Travel@Bali Showroom

Interior Design 2008 - Bali Showroom

There is nothing better, than to relax in Indonesia. It’s really miraculous.

"An architect is the drawer of dreams" by Grace McGrave

@Source: http://artstyleonline.com/photophrase-of-the-day/bali-indonesia-magic-of-paradise/

Fashion@紀念創辦人 MIKIMOTO珠鍊預購

4月底將來台展出的頂級珠寶展系列,復古流蘇珍珠項鍊日幣售價13,650,000(約台幣455萬元)
圖/MIKIMOTO提供

於日本限量發售的公益鍊墜,正面和側面造型都別具巧思。
圖/MIKIMOTO提供

今年適逢「養殖珍珠之父」御木本幸吉誕辰150周年,其一手打造的品牌MIKIMOTO於日本推出系列限量版紀念新品,包括各種飾品、腕表以及最能展現珍珠之美的珠鍊等20多款設計,台灣4月將限量預訂並舉辦珠寶展。

曾說過「要以MIKIMOTO珍珠來妝點每位女性脖子」的御木本幸吉,於1893年成功培育第一顆養殖珍珠,雖然來不及看到每個女生都戴上珍珠,但其不懈努力下,今日的MIKIMOTO早已成為全球頂級珍珠代名詞。

MIKIMOTO品牌副總周美娟表示,御木本幸吉不僅是品牌創辦人,更是藉珍珠將日本推向世界,發揚日本珠寶工藝技術的重要人物。

由於紀念版商品僅於今年度限量發售,在與總公司爭取下,台灣成為海外唯一發售紀念款之處,4月25日將有3款紀念款珠鍊與頂級珠寶一起來台開放預購,每款限量10條,售價從日幣220,500元至262,500元不等(折合台幣約73,500~87,500元)MIKIMOTO首席設計師矢島友博特別設計機械珠寶表,男女各一款,日本另發售公益商品,正面宛如含著珍珠的阿古屋母貝純銀鍊墜,側面看來卻是一尾小魚,部分所得將捐日本國土綠化環境保護協會,資助海水水質改善。

@Source: 2008/03/14 聯合報 ╱記者陳若齡 http://udn.com/

Arch@Gucci flagship, NYC


‘We didn’t have many corners of Fifth Avenue left!’ joked Gucci CEO Mark Lee at a press conference at the company’s new flagship store this week. The largest Gucci store in the world, which has a gross area of 46,000 square feet and will open to the public on Friday, thronged with the fashion cognoscenti, in town for New York Fashion Week, and a wonderfully bequiffed Donald Trump.

Located in the Trump building, the new store was designed under the watch of Gucci’s Creative Director, Frida Giannini (who was also present at the event and said that, after fashion, her passions in life were architecture and interior design), and plays with light and transparency: the façade, designed by James Carpenter, is a vast sheet of glass that allows the natural light to pour across all of its three floors, to scintillating effect.

‘The gold replaces the chrome from previous stores,’ said Giannini with a smile of a girl that’s got her way, and indeed the metal, the fused bronze glass, and the traditional dark rosewood do give the space a comforting atmosphere - something of an achievement considering its open areas are larger than a lot of stores on the Avenue.

Appropriately, last night's party to celebrate its opening was similarly grand in scope. The cause? UNICEF. The host? Madonna. The venue? The United Nations building.

@Source: http://www.wallpaper.com/fashion/gucci-flagship-nyc/2088

Arch@Sitzwohl restaurant, Innsbruck


Zaha Hadid's futuristic funicular railway station isn't the only new design-conscious place to visit in Innsbruck this season. Architect Irmgard Frank has transformed Gilmschule, a historic school building in the centre of Innsbruck, into the spacious restaurant and lounge Sitzwohl.

Forming part of the Stadtforum Innsbruck and its gallery for contemporary photography and arts, the venue is fashioned with a view to visual experiences as much as gustory satisfaction. The expansive dining area is subtly divided by light and dark elements. Angular wooden pillars contrast with glowing amber 'luminaries' that are interspersed between groups of tables.

This theme of illumination continues upstairs with the identically lustrous amber front of the ground floor bar. In the lounge area, winged lamps float above groups of elbow-high tables where an afternoon lunch is enlightened by views to a calming Japanese garden and thoughtful images from the neighbouring gallery.

Website: http://www.restaurantsitzwohl.at

3.13.2008

Travel@36 Hours in Taipei, Taiwan


A view of the city with Taipei 101 rising in the distance.

Photo: Christie Johnston for The New York Times

The public hot springs in Beitou, a Taipei suburb.

Photo: Christie Johnston for The New York Times

The New York Times Published: March 2, 2008

TAIPEI, the vibrant capital of Taiwan, distills the best of what Asian cities have to offer — great street food, crackling night life, arguably the world’s best collection of Chinese art, and hot springs and hiking trails reachable by public transport. With interest in mainland China surging, Taipei — one of the most underrated tourist destinations in Asia — offers a look at a different side of China, one that escaped the deprivations of early Communist rule and the Cultural Revolution. Here is a Chinese culture (some contend that it is uniquely Taiwanese) that practices bare-knuckled democracy and has preserved traditions thousands of years old in a way that was impossible to do on the mainland.

Friday

3 p.m.
1) ANCIENT WAYS

The National Palace Museum (221 Chih-shan Road, Section 2; 886-2-2881-2021; www.npm.gov.tw/en/home.htm) is considered by many to be the finest repository of Chinese art in the world; it houses artifacts dating back to the earliest days of Chinese civilization. The collection includes oracle bones, which have the first known written Chinese ideograms, as well as ritual bronze vessels, Ming Dynasty pottery and jade sculptured into the shapes of cabbage and fatty pork.

5 p.m.
2) TOP OF THE WORLD

But enough of ancient culture, at least for now. Immerse yourself in modern Taipei by going deep into the belly of the tallest building in the world, the 1,670-foot Taipei 101 (7 Xinyi Road, Section 5; www.taipei-101.com.tw/index_en.htm). The first five floors, with stores like Armani, Louis Vuitton and Sogo, should satisfy any shopping urge. Take a high-speed elevator to the indoor and outdoor observation decks, starting on the 89th floor, for unparalleled views of Taipei and its environs. In every direction lie city blocks and avenues winding among concrete-and-glass towers, with verdant hills rising in the distance. Wisps of cloud float past the windows. Beware of vertigo.

7 p.m.
3) OYSTERS IN THE SKY

Dinner is only a few floors away. Go down to the 85th floor of Taipei 101 to feast on traditional Taiwanese dishes at Shin Yeh (886-2-8101-0185). Try the deep-fried oysters and rolls stuffed with taro and shrimp. Set dinners start at about 1,600 Taiwan dollars per person ($50.40 at 31.75 Taiwan dollars to the U.S. dollar). Be sure to make reservations well in advance, ideally several weeks before arriving.

9 p.m.
4) MARTINIS WITH MOOD

Lounge bars have popped up all over Taipei. If you’re in a mood for dessert with your drink, try the bar in the consciously hip People Restaurant (191 Anhe Road, Section 2; 886-2-2735-2288). The attitude starts even before you enter: the double doors have no handles, nor do they open automatically. Figuring out how to get in is only part of the fun. Once inside, walk through the shadowy industrial rooms and take a seat at the bar or in the lounge, where cocktails are served in large glass globes. Next, saunter down the road to Rewine (137 Anhe Road, Section 1; 886-2-2325-6658), whose head bartender has won international awards for his unique cocktails.

Saturday

6 a.m.
5) CHANNELING INNER ENERGY

If you’re heading back to your hotel at dawn, or need some fresh air early in the morning, stop in at the largest public park in the city, Da An Park. It cannot compare to New York’s Central Park in size — the width and length each stretch only a few city blocks — but the smattering of tropical foliage, along with paths meandering across a level green field, endow the park with a serene air. You can watch Taipei’s dedicated tai chi practitioners going through their moves or perhaps an elderly woman doing a sword dance.

9 a.m.
6) STEAMY MORNING

After a quick breakfast at one of Taipei’s many corner bakeries, hop on the subway, called the MRT, to the New Beitou stop, about 40 minutes from downtown. The northern town of Beitou is renowned for its hot springs resorts, some modeled after those in Japan. Walk up the hill to take a soak at one of the newest of the spas, Villa 32 (32 Zhongshan Road; 886-2-6611-8888; www.villa32.com). It has all the atmosphere of a luxury spa in a uniquely Taiwanese setting, with outdoor pools of different temperatures shielded by wooden awnings and the shade of leafy trees. Rent a room for several hours or spend the morning with other bathers in the outdoor pools, separated by gender.

1 p.m.
7) READING TEA LEAVES

Taiwanese are discerning tea-drinkers, and going to teahouses is popular here. One local favorite is De Ye Cha Chi, near the Shandao Temple MRT station (3-1 Zhen Jiang Street; 886-2-2351-1002). Jars of tea leaves sit against a wall in the quiet dining room, and guests can brew their tea in traditional pots. Try Oriental Beauty, an oolong tea with a naturally sweet taste that was supposedly given its English-language name by the Queen of England after she had a sip. Prices vary, but a pot can cost less than 300 Taiwan dollars.

3 p.m.
8) PLACATING THE SPIRITS

To get answers to weighty life questions, or just to observe traditional Taiwanese religious practices, head to Longshan Temple, on Guangzhou Street in the venerable Wanhua neighborhood of western Taipei. Built in 1738, its main altar houses a statue of Guanyin, the goddess of compassion, but many other gods — some red-faced, others long-bearded — also have their own shrines and worshipers. In the courtyard, Taiwanese burn incense and cast red, crescent-shaped pieces of wood to divine their fortunes.

5 p.m.
9) CINEMA OBSCURA

If your energy is flagging about now, sit down for coffee at the Spot, the favorite art-house cinema of many a Taipei resident (18 Zhongshan North Road, Section 2; 886-2-2511-7786). The white villa that houses the screening rooms, restaurant and bar was once the official residence of the American ambassador. It is one of the most atmospheric buildings in Taipei, redolent of colonial life in the tropics, with lush grounds that shield the villa from the street.

7 p.m.
10) ALL WRAPPED Up

There’s no avoiding Din Tai Fung, a mandatory stop on Taiwan’s restaurant scene (194 Xinyi Road, Section 2; 886-2-2321-8928). This crowded, brightly lit restaurant, with chefs rolling and stuffing dumplings in the front, specializes in xiao long bao, steamed soup dumplings. These are usually associated with Shanghainese cuisine, but the dumplings here are famous for skin that is much more delicate than those of their Shanghainese counterparts. Try the ones with pork, pork and crab meat or purely vegetables. Save room for taro dumplings as a first dessert. A full meal might cost 300 Taiwan dollars a person.

9 p.m.
11) SHAVED ICE

Head around the corner to Yongkang Street, a celebrated eating avenue, for your second dessert: a mound of shaved ice topped with fresh mango, strawberry or kiwi at Ice Monster (15 Yongkang Street). Then stroll along the Street, lined with traditional noodle shops, Japanese restaurants and sweet tofu dessert parlors.

10 p.m.
12) SMALL EATS

Taipei is as modern a city as any in Asia, but traditional night markets thrive in many neighborhoods. The biggest ones resemble beachside boardwalks, with cheek-by-jowl crowds, fun-fair games, knickknack stores selling everything from chopsticks to DVD’s and, of course, every kind of Taiwanese snack food. The liveliest markets are Raohe, by Ciyou Temple in the Songshan neighborhood; Shida, between the Guting and Taipower Building MRT stations; and Shilin, at the Jiantan MRT station.

Sunday

9 a.m.
13) INTO THE CLOUDS

Your last day? Take a bus or taxi over to Yangmingshan, the gently sloping dormant volcano that sits in a national park on Taipei’s northern edge. The rangers at the main visitor’s center can give you advice on the dozens of trails. If the weather is clear, consider walking up to Mount Cising, which at 3,674 feet is the highest summit in the greater Taipei basin. The wind-swept high meadows are covered in waves of silvergrass, and the views could well inspire you to start planning your return trip to Taipei.

The Basics

In mid-February, a quick Internet search showed that the cheapest round-trip flights from New York to Taipei for travel in early March cost $800 on Northwest Airlines (two stops) and $930 on United Airlines (one stop). You’ll pay about 1,200 Taiwan dollars ($31.80 at 31.75 Taiwan dollars to the U.S. dollar) to take a taxi from the international airport in Taipei to the city center. A shuttle bus to the main railway station, in the city center and a convenient place for subway connections, costs 120 Taiwan dollars.

Les Suites Taipei is an intimate boutique hotel that has two locations in the city (12 Ching Cheng Street; 886-2-8712-7688; and 135 Da An Road, Section 1; 886-2-8773-3799; www.suitetpe.com). Late last month, the weekend on-line rate for a double at the Da An location started at about $140 a night.

The Grand Hotel, at least architecturally, lives up to its name (1 Zhongshan North Road, Section 4; 886-2-2886-8888; www.grand-hotel.org). Built in Qing Dynasty style, it has been a centerpiece of Taipei’s luxury hotel scene for years, though the location north of the city center is somewhat inconvenient. Late last month, the weekend rate for a double started at 3,990 Taiwan dollars per night.

@Source: http://travel.nytimes.com/2008/03/02/travel/02hours.html

Exhibition@Cai Guo-Qiang: I Want to Believe in The Guggenheim Museum

"Borrowing Your Enemy's Arrows" (1998)

The Guggenheim Museum’s retrospective of the work of the Chinese artist Cai Guo-Qiang is nothing if not action packed, writes Roberta Smith. The galleries are so rife with the sound of explosions and the sight of suspended objects and wildlife (stuffed) that it might almost be a movie set for some new martial-arts spy thriller. Perhaps “The Air-Bourne Aesthetic: Writhing Tigers, Hurtling Wolves.”

Organized by Thomas Krens, director of the Guggenheim Foundation, and Alexandra Munroe, the museum’s senior curator of Asian art, this exhibition nearly fills the museum and introduces a conceptually inclined impresario best known for works using gunpowder. Regularly hailed as a global artist and chosen to oversee the opening and closing ceremonies at the 2008 Olympics in Beijing, Mr. Cai has parlayed a United Nations’ worth of cultural sources and artistic strategies into crowd-pleasing, easily deciphered if not terribly original art.

Photo: Librado Romero/The New York Times


Detail of "The Age of Not Believing in God" (1999)

As shown here his work breaks down into three very different categories — installation art, gunpowder land art pieces (documented on video) and enormous gunpowder drawings — with markedly varied success. The installation pieces are the most spectacular, albeit the emptiest and most generic. They speak the familiar Esperanto of installation art that, subject to various cultural adjustments, has thrived at international biennials. Their hollowness makes a certain sense, given that Mr. Cai studied stage design.

The constants are suspended motion, sudden change, violence and, at times, transformation. Even the show’s title, “Cai Guo-Qiang: I Want to Believe,” suggests yearning for a different state, and whether this desire concerns art, religion, magic or U.F.O.’s is itself left up in the air.

Photo: Librado Romero/The New York Times


"Inopportune: Stage One" (2004)

The displays lead off with seven white sedans suspended as if they were back-flipping upward into the museum’s seven-story-high rotunda while spewing gorgeous sprays of neon sparks — an ambiguous comment on car bombings or Nascar racing.

Photo: Librado Romero/The New York Times


Detail of "Inopportune: Stage One" (2004)

On the first ramp nine imitation (if quite real-looking) stuffed tigers pincushioned with scores of arrows writhe in the air in furious death throes, a violent clash between nature and man that conjures royal hunts, extinct species and excessive force.

Photo: Librado Romero/The New York Times


Gianna Bambi of Florence, Italy, takes a boat ride.

“An Arbitrary History: River,” a considerably less trompe l’oeil installation work, involves attractively rough-hewn pieces, including a woven-basket canal filled with water and dried animal-hide rafts for paddling in it. But the ensemble effect is, again, familiar; it suggests a 1980s Neo-Expressionist painting in three dimensions.

Photo: Librado Romero/The New York Times


Installation view of "Cry Dragon/Cry Wolf - The Ark of Genghis Khan" (1996)

Since Mr. Cai emerged in the late 1980s and early ’90s, his work has often been seen as pure and above the market. It is lauded for its emphasis on collective activity and its expansion of the principles of appropriation, and in fact its populist thrust and often ephemeral nature can make it a welcome antidote to the world of saleable art objects, commercial galleries and auctions. But Mr. Cai’s work is also quite expensive to realize. And his prominence is the product of a system that rivals the market in size and power: that of biennial exhibitions, public commissions and international organizations. Both systems, commercial and institutional, are driven by spectacle, whether the spectacle of high prices or the spectacle of large scale or feats of installation.

Photo: Librado Romero/The New York Times


"Reflection - A Gift From Iwaki"

Take for example the rare moment of stasis at the show’s conclusion: a large, salt-bitten hull of a Japanese fishing boat, resurrected from the sea and now marooned on a bed of shattered white porcelain statues. Mr. Cai has shown it twice before, and each time it is assembled and disassembled by the crew of Japanese workers and fishermen who originally recovered it. This is what might be called extreme appropriation art; the hull is hauntingly beautiful, not primarily as art but as an archaeological specimen and feat of engineering, both in its construction and its placement in a museum.

Photo: Librado Romero/The New York Times


"Fetus Movement II: Project for Extraterrestrials No. 9" (1991)

Mr. Cai’s work is most convincing when gunpowder is involved, particularly with the enormous gunpowder drawings and screens, whose fuzzed and charred images result from exploding gunpowder and fuses on paper.

Photo: Librado Romero/The New York Times


Videos show Mr. Cai making these works aided by assistants who spring forward to extinguish the flames after the explosions. The motifs they save can be feathery depictions of pine needles and branches that evoke traditional Chinese and Japanese brush painting — although when Mr. Cai adds an eagle to this motif, his installation-art hokiness returns. Other images include mountainous or lunar landscapes, Minimalist pyramids and, most impressively, a giant mandala with a Buddha-like silhouette at its center titled “Fetus Movement II: Project for Extraterrestrials, No. 9,” from 1991. The subtitles, shared with land-art gunpowder pieces for which the drawings are often studies, intimate an audience beyond not only the art world, but also the planet.

Mr. Cai always thinks big. But here, when he is more hands-on, the impresario becomes an artist.

Photo: Librado Romero/The New York Times

@Source: http://www.nytimes.com/slideshow/2008/02/22/arts/22cai-slideshow_index.html

Fashion@品味男裝》Hermes 印度傳說般的香料色調

愛馬仕以印度為主題推出系列印度印染的絲襯衫配搭絲巾,呈現多元色彩的協調感。
圖/業者提供

「藝術感而略帶女性細膩」的法式色彩語言,當然要從Hermes說起。

呼應「印度」年度主題的愛馬仕男裝 ,素色、條紋、格子和印花交錯運用的織物,配上如黏土、胡椒、洋茴香和亮眼橘色等搶眼的「香料」色調,Hermes愛馬仕08春夏大膽運用織品和色彩的對比和協調感,瀰漫著一片異國風情的華麗氛圍中,彷彿看見神祕而古老的印度。

短版或絲料襯裡的連帽運動拉鍊夾克,配上V領、U領、立領、無領或前開襟釦的突尼西亞式襯衫,重點在強調腰身和濃郁印花;下半身則清一色淡色系簡單直筒長褲,這種拆組上、下半身「對比」色的手法,正好因應了「不搞怪,但卻風格特立」Hermes愛馬仕品味特色。

@2008/03/10 聯合報 ╱記者袁青 http://udn.com/

Fashion@品味男裝》Paul Smith 埋伏幽默的奶油色復古

Paul Smith條紋上的色彩搭配,可作為男士配色學上的基本色盤參考。
圖/業者提供

充滿英倫色彩的頑童Paul Smith,今年春夏一方面以「奶油色」為主要的色調,彰顯復古調性;但仔細察覺,他的幽默本色卻悄悄地藏在翻領的部分,搭配粉紅色、藍色的絲質滾邊裝 飾,即使是色調柔和的襯衫,也刻意配上大膽的針織領帶,形成視覺衝突。配上明亮絲質滾邊為裝飾的條紋外套、顏色鮮艷的運動夾克,則帶出濃厚的英倫設計風 格。

@2008/03/10 聯合報 ╱記者袁青 http://udn.com/

Design@環保時尚題材走紅 紐約倫敦掀熱潮

比利時家飾設計師Domingos Totora以廢紙製成家飾。
The One提供

法國家具Bleu Nature漂流木長凳,售價85,000元。
清庭提供

環保時尚 (Eco-Fashion),近來在時尚圈內迅速走紅。不過回收垃圾製成的環保商品,並不代表就是「便宜貨」,相反的,反倒比全新的商品還要昂貴,一般消費者若沒有環保意識,很難對這類價不廉的環保商品感興趣。

時尚圈內已有不少設計師嘗試以環保素材設計服裝,尤其是紐約與倫敦設計師最為熱中。如德拉倫塔 (Oscar de la Renta)曾以玉米糖製作晚禮服、雙人組設計師品牌Proenza Schouler也曾發表過回收垃圾製成的環保禮服,但訂價都非常昂貴,且因無法量產,全世界只有一件。

在紐約被譽為「環保服裝設計師」的Linda Loudermilk,作品深受珍芳達等倡議環保的女星喜愛。她曾以「環保奢華」(Eco-Luxury) 來形容她以海草設計的環保禮服,一來海草布料仍處於研發階段,製作成本高,二來減少消費、減少浪費,才能真正落實環保,「非普及化」的訂價,正是要讓消費 者減少購物的欲望。

近來平價服飾如Levi's 牛仔褲、H&M也推出有機棉服裝等,但完全不使用化學農藥和肥料的有機棉產量少、成本高,訂價比一般服飾貴2成以上,且有機棉服裝的色澤泛黃、摸起來不平順,並不美觀。

除了天然有機棉,新研發的環保布材還有以回收汽水瓶製成的EcoSpun、以木漿製成的Lenpur、以豆漿製成的Soya和利用竹子製成的Sasawashi等。

環保熱潮也向居家業界延燒,近日「The One」引進比利時設計師Domingos Totora以廢棄紙製成花瓶、托盤等家飾作品,以純手工保留舊紙的色澤,呈現古老質樸的調性,每只單品的訂價逾萬元。

清庭引進法國家具Bleu Nature的漂流木家具,平均單價都在5 萬元以上,有不少國內室內設計師偏愛以廢鐵軌的枕木、海邊撿來的漂流木製成家具,未經上漆、洗色、刨光的處理,刻意保留廢木材的原貌,已蔚為「環保家具」的主流。

@2008/03/11 聯合報 ╱記者陶福媛 http://udn.com/

Fashion@時裝 最沒安全感的工業

先禮後兵,決戰時裝伸展台的參賽者交鋒前的暖身。
照片/DISCOVERY提供
每位設計師新手無不卯力秀出真材實學,一關關等著晉階;期待飛上枝頭的那一天。
照片/DISCOVERY提供

You're OUT!時尚伸展台前,不容辯解,偏執狂般的強烈意識決定了設計師的命運。當名模主持人Heidi klum像女王般宣判去留的剎那,不是九死一生般地晉級,就是陷入無止境絕望深淵地收拾細軟,滾蛋!

沒錯! 時尚就像裹著糖衣的迷幻藥,正當你還停留在奮力踩著同好,攀上高峰的心情,下一場決戰已無情展在眼前。時尚是不是陰謀? 答案很弔詭,但可以肯定的是,「時裝是最令人沒有安全感的工業之一。」季節性的流行結構,令人喘不過氣來,尤其是誰也沒法子掛保證的市場口味。一季超過上百款系列和訂單的壓力;一翻兩瞪眼的競爭,把時裝產業的人都搞得神經緊張;突如其來的亢奮總伴隨著跌落谷地的莫名憂鬱,恐怕莫過於每一季的新裝發表。

「像一場惡夢、簡直就是個笑話;穿上它,寧死也甘願;」服裝設計師每一季都必須面對尖酸刻薄或是無厘頭的批評。美麗的時裝背後永遠比我們預期的危險而邪 惡。這個浮華的圈子裡「最好」的訂義,也許是「最聰明」,但不見得最完美。諷刺的是,時裝卻是不斷追求虛榮表相下絕對美感的一場競賽?

「同行之間,冷嘲熱諷和勾心鬥角的排擠和猜忌,」新手設計師面對晉進級之前,如同「警局偵訊室,嫌犯被拷問的無情批判,」穿插在美麗、俊俏的模特兒走秀和一切絕對美麗表相的包裝,再也沒有什麼比這種情節更能刺激收視率。

時尚是一種認同、藝術也是殘酷的競爭;非洲大草原的生存法則完全適用於時裝界。不同的只是,「決戰伸展台」彷彿是披著美麗獸皮的人性挑戰;也是一小撮獨斷如法西斯主義者,
進行時尚集權的戲碼。但是,人生還有什麼事
,像穿、脫衣服般必須且不斷在進行著?

@2008/03/11 聯合報 /記者袁青 http://udn.com/

Arch@比佛利山》FENDI 旗艦店 新奢華主義

FENDI位於洛杉磯羅迪歐大道最新旗艦店的外觀,門面及裝潢都保留羅馬總店的奢華風貌。
圖片提供/FENDI
FENDI比佛利山莊旗艦店開幕會場,走純白極簡的現代設計風格,採拍賣會方式進行。
圖片提供/FENDI

奢華精品總令人嚮往喜愛,旗艦店也永遠停不下漫步全球的腳步,去年底才在香港九龍開旗艦店的FENDI,2月又在美國洛杉磯比佛利山莊羅迪歐大道(Rodeo Drive)開店。

設計裝潢仍舊由堪稱旗艦店專屬建築師的Peter Marino擔任,近百坪的兩層樓空間,從內至外都延續著羅馬總部的新奢華主義風格,透過光影明暗、曲直對比的空間語言,經典優雅地道出FENDI悠久、 豐富的品牌歷史和高貴傳統,也反映出建築風格從羅馬第一家店創建初期的古典巴洛克,到今天現代氣派的演變。

一進門所見為鞋、包、太陽眼鏡,另有女裝區,商品大同小異,但開幕活動倒是頗具意義,眾星雲集外,以拍賣會形式進行,所得皆捐助給洛杉磯鄉村藝術館,輔助推動館內「Arts for NexGen」藝術專案,展現了品牌在時尚與藝術合作的努力。

@2008/03/13 聯合報 ╱記者陳若齡 http://udn.com/

Arch@銀座》ARMANI概念店 竹林中的水晶塔

座落於銀座中央區的Armani Ginza Tower,是該區最搶眼的地標,也是品牌進入日本市場20年的紀念象徵。
圖片提供/GIORGIO ARMANI

10樓餐廳,以黑色漆木、金色金屬裝潢,加上竹葉圖案屏風隔間,在此享用義式美食,彷彿時空錯置。
圖片提供/GIORGIO ARMANI

5樓為全球第一間Armani SPA,以古羅馬熱澡池為藍本,並提供從義大利南部採集的黑曜石護理療程。
圖片提供/GIORGIO ARMANI

位於4樓的Armani Casa,Giorgio Armani獨到的時尚美感在此完美融入居家裝飾。
圖片提供/GIORGIO ARMANI

一至三樓為Giorgio Armani招牌男女裝及配件,販售標誌有Armani Ginza Tower的金黑色系限量版服飾。
圖片提供/GIORGIO ARMANI

地下兩層樓的Emporio Armani系列,黑色漆面的空間,展現年輕超現代形象。
圖片提供/GIORGIO ARMANI

佇立銀座中央區街頭,12層樓高的Armani Ginza Tower猶如被竹林包圍的大型水晶雕塑,正以一種安靜卻難掩高調的方式傳遞所謂時尚概念。這是繼米蘭Armani/Manzoni、慕尼黑 Armani/Funf Hofe,及香港Armani/Chater House後,全球第4間結合時裝、配飾、生活精品、餐廳、Cafe等全方位的Armani概念旗艦店。

這間由Giorgio Armani與義大利頂尖建築師夫妻檔Doriana及Massimiliano Fuksas再度聯手構思打造的旗艦店(香港店也是由他們設計),於去年11月開設,意謂著即使整體經濟不甚理想,日本精品市場的消費實力依舊,也為品牌 進入日本剛好20年留下亮眼且具體的里程碑。

有別的以往的購物體驗,將從地下2樓開始,往上盡情挑選Giorgio Armani和Emporio Armani招牌男女服飾及配件,之後透過Casa裡各種家具、織品、燈飾及擺件,感受注入Giorgio Armani時尚美感的絕美居家氛圍,接著到全球唯一的Armani SPA享受一場私密豪華的舒壓療程,徹底釋放身心,最後再去10樓的餐廳或11樓酒吧,享用曾接待過黛安娜王妃及布希的Enrico Derflingher料理的義大利美食。

Giorgio Armani說:「竹柔美而強韌,最能象徵日本這充滿有趣對比的國家」,大樓外LED與光纖科技映射著自然竹林光影,內部金色金屬、磨砂玻璃與漆亮鋼板, 奢華高調地勾勒出純粹靜謐的空間,詮釋日式氛圍的義大利美食。力與柔、傳統與現代,在地與異國,Giorgio Armani式的興味對比也在此和諧展演。


@2008/03/13 聯合報 ╱記者陳若齡 http://udn.com/

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