7.18.2009

衣錦還鄉 王大仁最哈臭豆腐@Fashion


王大仁喜歡以黑白對比,詮釋女人俐落幹練的自信美。
圖/Club Designer提供

聯合報╱記者陶福媛

甫獲得「CFDA最佳新銳女裝設計師獎」的台裔服裝設計師王大仁 (Alexander Wang)昨翩然來台。被視為「台灣之光」的他表示,首次返台是在十年前,去年也曾來台旅遊,他對台灣的街頭文化和美食毫不陌生,一下飛機就殺到通化夜市 大快朵頤,「我喜歡台灣小吃,尤其是臭豆腐。」

王大仁父母早年從台灣移民至美國舊金山,他在舊金山出生,目前只有奶奶和表哥定居台灣。在訪談中,王大仁可以聽懂一點華語,也會講些單字,問他此行會探望親友嗎?他微笑點頭,改以生硬國語回答:「看奶奶!」

今年才二十五歲的他,獲CFDA基金會新人獎、CFDA最佳新銳女裝設計師等大獎,設計才華備受肯定,去年起他把觸角延伸至資生堂彩妝、Uniqlo平價服飾,在國際時尚舞台打響知名度;今年他再乘勝追擊推出平價副牌「T Label」和男裝,迎戰低迷景氣。

問他的生意頭腦從何而來?「應該是我的母親吧!」王大仁說他的母親是個成功的女強人,在美國經營工廠,對經營企業相當有一套,「我偶而也會犯錯,但她教我要勇於嘗試、不要怕犯錯,但要從錯誤中學習,且要緊緊抓住每一個機會!」

王大仁十五歲時,在哥哥婚禮上發表他人生的第一場服裝秀,靠著一台桌上型縫紉機縫製近十五套禮服,展露他在設計上的天分。

他笑說,他的嫂嫂是婚禮婚禮派對企畫師,哥哥結婚時,嫂嫂提議:「何不將你的禮服作品全部拿出來,舉辦一場服裝秀!」,這場處女秀廣受賓客好評,同時也成為他人生志向的轉捩點。

王大仁所詮釋的女裝融入運動風元素,充滿性感魅力,色彩多以黑、白、灰色系為主,俐落的線條剪裁帶有女同志的強悍自信,他說:「女人應勇於嘗試各種可能,如果她的尺碼是四號,她可改穿十號的衣服,利用長短混搭穿出合宜的比例!」

王大仁坦承自己在多元文化的衝擊下,激發他創作的靈感,但他不願把自己定位成「華裔設計師」,受限於只會設計東方風格的服飾,而應有國際的視野和胸襟,才能創作出好的作品。

@Source from: 【2009/07/18 聯合報】@ http://udn.com/

7.17.2009

Halston Fall 2009@Videos



Halston Fall 2009 www.halston.com

七○以舞廳風格聞名的美國服裝品牌HALSTON,自創始人Roy Halston於1990年過世之後,這個品牌就開始黯淡沒落。不過從去年開始,這個曾經造成傳奇的品牌似乎有了重新振作的跡象:新任CEO Bonnie Takhar將VERSACE女裝及高級訂製服的首席設計師Marco Zanini從米蘭請到紐約,為HALSTON打造全新面貌,還與時尚購物網站NET-A-PORTER合作,服裝秀上看到的單品,隔天就可在NET-A-PORTER上買到。

不只如此,最新一季的Lookbook也很有噱頭,大手筆請來了奧斯卡得獎製片公司Blink Productions和Colonel Blimp打造了這支3分多鐘的MV式短片。以360度全景畫面呈現,由HALSTON當家女模Dree Hemmingway在紐約街頭般的場景內飛奔(身上飄逸的服裝和長腿真是誘人!)會動的畫面本來就比較好看,再配上動聽的音樂,時尚、電影、音樂和藝術元素一應俱全,更讓人打從心底印象深刻!HALSTON自然得意洋洋地稱讚自己:「這是HALSTON的一小步,卻是整個時尚工業的一大步。」

據悉由帥哥男星Jude Law所主演的Halston自傳電影也將於2010年推出,怎能不讓人期待這個傳奇品牌東山再起,重新發光發熱!

H&M x Jimmy Choo 聯手魅惑今秋@Fashion



Matthew Williamson之後是.....?答案是Jimmy Choo!

瑞典國民品牌H&M每季與頂尖時尚設計師合作都造成轟動,繼四月份與倫敦設計師Matthew Williamson合作之後,今年秋天將與女星們最熱愛的配件品牌Jimmy Choo攜手翻攪時尚。
一 雙動輒兩萬元台幣以上的Jimmy Choo,可以用親切的價格在H&M搶到,H&M x Jimmy Choo系列鞋、包將在2009年11月於H&M的二百家分店上架。這是H&M第一次與配件品牌合作,為了這次難得的合作,Jimmy Choo將把設計從配件延伸至服飾,是不是令人心跳加速呢?

在好萊塢,Jimmy Choo幾乎是女星們走紅毯時的必備配件,奧斯卡影后凱特布蘭琪 (Cate Blanchett)、荷兒貝瑞 (Halle Berry)、希拉蕊史旺 (Hilary Swank)等女星都曾穿上它走向星光大道。從1996年創立至今,Jimmy Choo已經是時尚鞋款的代名詞,也是愛美女人追逐的時尚好物,幾個月後,H&M門外又要大排長龍了!

photo:H&M
@from: www.u-fashion.com.tw

Louis Vuitton的太空之旅@Fashion


適逢人類登陸月球40周年,LV邀來3位太空人在美國加州高海拔沙漠中拍攝,畫面中3位太空人倚著一輛破卡車,望著空中明亮的月亮再度回想自己 的太空之旅,文案則引述阿姆斯壯(Neil Armstrong)1969年登陸月球的感言「有些旅程,改變了人類的未來」(Some journeys change mankind forever)。

巴兹•奧爾德林(Buzz Aldrin) - 1969年7月20與21日與阿姆斯壯(Neil Armstrong)搭乘阿波羅11號登陸月球,成為史上第二個踏上月球的人;吉姆 洛弗爾(Jim Lovell) - 傳奇的阿波羅13號艦長,在1970年的太空任務意外中成功帶領組員安全返抵地球;莎莉•瑞德(Sally Ride),在1983年搭乘太空梭成為史上第一位女太空人。
此次的攝影工作仍由知名攝影師Annie Leibovitz執行,選擇在美國加州高海拔沙漠中拍攝,畫面中所看到的月球呈現出不可思議的神秘存在感,三名太空人倚靠著一輛破舊的卡車,面對空中明亮的月亮各自再度回想著自己的太空體驗。

Louis Vuitton將針對此一全新企業廣告同時發表數位與平面廣告,也同時發表全新的互動網站( www.louisvuittonjourneys.com
) , 在網站中將有三位太空人回憶太空旅程改變他們人生的精采談話。觀眾可以在網站任意選擇任一太空人觀看他們的經驗分享,同時也能在不同畫面看到其它二位太空人對於談話者間的表情與反應。
photo:Louis Vuitton
@Source from:tw.style.com

紐時讚世運主場館 充滿人文魅力@Arch

名建築師伊東豊雄所設計的世運主場館,在夜幕低垂之際,仍展現恢宏氣勢。(美聯社)
〔編譯管淑平/紐約時報十五日報導〕

高雄世運開幕,世運主場館建築風格也引起國際媒體注意。紐約時報十五日專文介紹這座由日本知名建築師伊東豊雄設計的體育場,稱讚它不僅極具魅力,更著重與周邊都市生活、人文環境的結合,擁有其他類似規模建築少有的豊富人文氣息。

紐約時報指出,伊東豊雄設計的這座體育場,雖不像北京奧運主場館「鳥巢」引起那麼多討論,但是它令人陶醉,魅力不下於鳥巢,強調的是在實體或象徵意涵上,將體育場內賽事與周邊公共空間和環境做連結。

伊東豊雄設計 魅力不輸鳥巢

這座能容納四萬人的體育場,主體結構是由白色鋼管交織而成的螺旋體,蜿蜒如一條正準備環抱其獵物的巨蟒,尾端往外延伸,形成入口廣場的一部分,場館周圍是 一片廣大的綠帶公園,數年後,當這些熱帶植物長成,體育場就好似被一片茂盛的熱帶森林圍繞。主體尾端和開口式設計,在意象、實體上,傳達將場館外環境融入 體育場內的體驗,就在視線隨著充滿律動感的主體結構曲線投向體育場內之際,遠方山頭和市中心天際線納入眼簾,伊東豊雄似乎藉此再次凸顯體育場與這座城市連 結的意念。

伊東豊雄以此一開放又環抱的實驗設計體育場,試圖探尋現代主義晚期和後現代主義所忽略的心理層面,目的就是要擴展建築的情感面,創造一種豊富的人文體驗。

伊東豊雄一九四一年生於日本殖民時期的韓國首爾,一九六五年自東京大學建築系畢業。一九九七年獲得日本年度藝術選獎文部大臣獎,二○○二年拿下威尼斯建築 雙年展終身成就金獅獎。除了高雄世運主場體育館,伊東豊雄未來還將在台灣完成台中大都會歌劇院、台灣大學社會科學院院館兩項作品,台灣北、中、南都可看見 這位大師的作品。

@Source from: 自由時報

亞洲大學 安藤忠雄藝術館 9.22動土@Arch



【黃繡鳳/文】

 由建築大師安藤忠雄為亞洲大學設計的全世界第一所大學校園藝術館,將於9月22日舉行動土典禮,屆時安藤忠雄大師將親自抵台主持,整體工程預定一年後落成啟用。

 藝術館完工後將與校園對面的行政大樓,其巴洛克圓頂建築相輝映,成為台灣中部的新地標、新風貌,也將為升格後的大台中市寫下一段建築圖騰三角三段論述。 台中地區隨著時空演進,在建築物方面,有三種建築三個圖騰,代表三個階段的台中市;亞洲大學總務長朱界陽說,台中人若看到兩個直立的三角亭建築圖樣,就會 說:「那是代表日據時代的台中、台中市公園內的日月亭!」接著,若看到一個直立的扁三角形建築圖,就脫口而出:「那是代表光復後的台中,東海大學教堂、貝 聿銘的作品!」

 朱界陽強調,安藤忠雄藝術館明年落成後,台中人若看到三個三角型堆疊在一起的建築圖樣,就會說:「這是代表21世紀的民主台灣,升格後的大台中市,亞洲大學的藝術館,安藤忠的代表作之一!」

 朱界陽認為,亞洲大學安藤忠雄藝術館,把台中市的進化論,推進到第三階段,即從日據、光復到民主的國際化,這就是將寫下一段建築圖騰三角三論述,也讓國內建築業及亞洲大學全校師生滿懷期待。

 亞洲大學副校長劉育東、哈佛大學建築設計博士,也是交通大學建築研究所創所教授。他認為,安藤忠雄大師強調建築物本身必須和當地自然環境取得協調,三個 正三角形組合而成的三層樓,這座亞洲大學的藝術館所要傳達的訊息,是指一個人是無法獨立生存的,三角形包含了大自然、人類以及人類與大自然一起孕育的許多 創新的事物,就如陽光、空氣、水,缺一不可,也就是建築與環保概念。

 他說,安藤大師傳授給學生具有國際化藝術及美學創意教育,格外難得。尤其,一年後,師生們能在「安藤忠雄藝術館」喝杯咖啡,是多麼愜意的一件美事。

 朱界陽也強調,亞洲大學校園風景如畫,行政大樓是巴洛克銅綠圓頂、古典柱式的建築,搭配法國羅丹、阿曼及台灣楊英風教授等多位國內外名藝術雕刻家近20 件大型雕塑作品,如「沉思者」、「永恆的春天 」、「吻」、「勝利女神詩篇」及「鳳凰來儀」、「水袖」等銅雕,矗立在校園各角落,更令人賞心悅目,將來也都是安藤忠雄藝術館收藏的寶藏。

@Source from: 2009-07-16 中國時報

7.15.2009

Taiwan Tech Firms Strive to Be Global@Technology


Wally Santana/Associated Press
Acer laptops running Google's new Android operating system at the Computex trade show in Taipei, Taiwan.

Published: June 3, 2009
TAIPEI, Taiwan — For more than a decade, Western technology companies and Taiwanese manufacturers had a simple, mutually beneficial arrangement.

The Taiwanese companies built music players, laptops and cellphones to precise specifications dictated by customers like Apple, Hewlett-Packard and Motorola. The Western companies then slapped their familiar labels on the devices, marked up the prices and bombarded consumers with advertisements celebrating their innovative wares.

But in the last couple of years, that tight relationship has begun to fray. No longer content to lurk in the background, some of the Taiwanese companies have sought a more direct route to consumers — and the higher profits that come with owning a global brand.

A few of the Taiwanese companies have even developed reputations as technology leaders. With its Eee PC, Asustek practically invented the most popular category of personal computers today: the ultralight Web-oriented laptops known as netbooks.

Acer, poised to overtake Dell as the world’s second-largest PC maker after Hewlett-Packard, has used its manufacturing might to produce powerful PCs that it can sell more cheaply than its competitors. And HTC developed the first smartphones to use Google’s Android operating system, becoming a showcase for the potential of the new software.

“There is a strong desire in the Taiwanese industry to try and break through,” said Mark Lee, a Taiwan native who runs a software start-up in Silicon Valley called DeviceVM. “I think the industry is going through that big transformation right now.”

Nowhere is the transformation more clear than in the market for netbooks. Acer and Asustek claim about two-thirds of the nascent category, whose sales have soared despite an overall plunge in PC sales.

In addition, Asustek ended last year as the fastest-growing PC company in Europe. Acer, which sells computers under its own name as well as through acquired brands Gateway, eMachines and Packard Bell, is the fastest-growing PC maker over all, according to the research company Gartner.

Despite their sales gains, the Taiwanese companies still have a long way to go to match the marketing flair of an Apple or H.P. Their brands, while strong in Asia, remain largely unknown to consumers in the United States. They do little direct selling to individual or corporate technology buyers, preferring to work through retailers and other intermediaries. And a tradition of secrecy has led to an awkward relationship with the news media.

“They have to adapt and sort that stuff out,” said Mark Hamblin, who helped develop the touch-screen technology for the Apple iPhone and now runs Touch Revolution in San Francisco. “But if someone with that Taiwan base really figures that side out, they will be very, very successful.”

The changing role of the Taiwanese manufacturers is apparent this week at the annual Computex technology trade show in Taipei.

Traditionally, the event has focused on manufacturers’ showing off their latest wares to current and potential partners. Thousands of people come to see components such as power supplies and the fans used to cool computers. Signs herald “overclocking memory with the latest heat spreader,” language that, while foreign to most people, makes hardware enthusiasts drool.

Recently, though, exhibitors at Computex have started to promote much more than their latest circuit boards. Local and foreign companies now use the show to introduce products that they hope will shake up the computing market.

Noury Al-Khaledy, the general manager for mobile products at Intel, says out that Computex has risen in importance as Asian countries, especially China, have turned into the largest potential growth markets.

Two years ago, Asustek introduced the Eee PC at Computex. The small, cheap laptop ignited a wave of enthusiasm in the PC industry. Now, all of the major computer makers sell similar products.

This year, many Taiwanese computer makers are showing ultralight, full-featured laptops that cost less than $600 and other machines that can operate all day on one battery charge. Meanwhile, American companies like Intel and Microsoft are talking about their chips and software aimed at very thin, cheap laptops and computers with sophisticated touch-screen technology.

Next year, Computex could well stand as the showcase for breakthrough smartphones, as those devices approach the capabilities of basic PCs.

Acer, Asustek and HTC stand out as the most prominent examples of Taiwanese companies entering the limelight.

In the last few years, Acer and Asustek have split off their manufacturing arms and chosen to compete directly against the likes of H.P. and Dell in the PC market with their own brands.

“Acer started doing their own brand, and they started seeing their profits go up and up,” said Joseph Wei, who runs SJW Consulting, a Silicon Valley business that links United States and Asian technology companies. “So the Taiwanese government started to encourage more companies to follow this model.”

HTC used to operate completely behind the scenes, manufacturing cellphones other companies would sell under their names. But by embracing Android, HTC won new attention as the maker of the “Google phone.”

In many ways, Taiwanese suppliers have had little choice but to broaden their ambitions. As the computer industry has consolidated, manufacturers have faced increasing pressure to cut prices. To escape declining margins, they need to diversify.

Some of Taiwan’s manufacturers have invested in Silicon Valley software companies to expand margins and get the inside track on new technology. Mr. Lee’s company, DeviceVM, which makes software for booting PCs quickly, has investments from Asustek and executives at a number of large manufacturers. The story for Mr. Hamblin’s Touch Revolution is similar.

Even the largest Taiwanese companies have started to branch out. Foxconn — which employs more than 500,000 people, mostly in China, to produce Apple iPods, Nintendo Wiis and other popular products — recently hired thousands of software developers and built up its services arm. The company is also working on Chinese-language applications for the iPhone and software for e-readers and Android, according to industry executives.

“I am starting to see a bunch of the manufacturers try to climb up the value chain,” Mr. Hamblin said. “They know that they have to build software teams and tie into content now.”

@Source from: http://www.nytimes.com/2009/06/04/technology/companies/04compute.html

Inside His Exteriors / Toyo Ito@Arch


Jim O’Connell for The New York Times
Toyo Ito with his model for the Taichung opera house, which will include restaurants, foyers, a roof garden and three concert halls that will seat 200 to 2,000 people.

Published: July 8, 2009

AFTER nearly four decades of work Toyo Ito has earned a cult following among architects around the world, although he is little known outside his home country, Japan. Through his strange and ethereal buildings, which range from modest houses for the urban recluse to a library whose arched forms have the delicacy of paper cutouts, he has created a body of work almost unmatched in its diverse originality.

Over the past decade, as the popularity of architecture has boomed and many of his contemporaries have jetted around the globe piling up one commission after another, Mr. Ito has largely remained on the sidelines. He is rarely mentioned in conversations about semicelebrities like Rem Koolhaas, Zaha Hadid or Jacques Herzog. He has repeatedly been passed over for the Pritzker Prize, architecture’s highest honor, in favor of designers with much thinner résumés. Even in his native country he is overshadowed by Tadao Ando, whose brooding concrete structures have become a cliché of contemporary Japanese architecture.

Mr. Ito’s status may finally be about to change. On Thursday a stadium he designed for the World Games will be unveiled to a global audience in Kaohsiung, Taiwan. Its pythonlike form should produce as much a stir, at least within architectural circles, as did the Bird’s Nest stadium by Mr. Herzog and Pierre de Meuron when it was unveiled a year ago at the Beijing Olympics.

Even more ambitious are his plans for the Taichung opera house, which is scheduled to go into construction sometime next year. A work of striking inventiveness, it has already been touted as a masterpiece. Its porous exterior, which resembles a gigantic sponge, is as wildly imaginative in its way as Frank Gehry’s Guggenheim museum in Bilbao, Spain. Its design was a large reason Mr. Ito was recently awarded his first American commission, the Berkeley Art Museum in California.

But even if Mr. Ito begins to land the big, lucrative commissions that he so obviously deserves, he may never be completely accepted by a broad popular audience. He does not have the intimidating, larger-than-life persona of a Koolhaas. Nor is he a flamboyant presence like Ms. Hadid, who is often compared to an opera diva because of her striking looks and imperial air.

Mr. Ito, by comparison, can be unassuming. A small, compact man with a round face framed by rectangular glasses and dark bangs, he is easygoing and rarely flustered. And he has the rare ability to consider his projects with a critical eye, even going so far as to point out flaws that a visitor might have overlooked.

What’s more, his work can be maddeningly difficult to categorize. No two Ito buildings look exactly alike. There is no unifying aesthetic style, no manifesto to advance. You can never be sure what Mr. Ito will do next, which can be thrilling for architects but nerve-racking for clients (another reason, perhaps, that his work isn’t better known).

What his buildings do share is a distrust of simplistic formulas. His career can be read as a lifelong quest to find the precise balance between seemingly opposing values — individual and community, machine and nature, male and female, utopian fantasies and hard realities.

His ability to find such balances consistently has made him one of our great urban poets, someone who has been able to crystallize, through architecture, the tensions that lie buried in the heart of contemporary society. It makes his work especially resonant today, when much of the world is drawn to one form of extremism or another.

Mr. Ito, who was born in 1941, began his career at a pivotal time in Japanese architecture. As a student in the 1960s he followed Modernists like Kenzo Tange as they rebuilt the country’s cultural confidence after the devastation of World War II. His first job was in the office of Kiyonori Kikutake, a founder of the Metabolist movement, which envisioned gigantic flexible structures that could adapt to a society in constant flux. It established Mr. Kikutake and his cohorts as prominent figures of the international avant-garde.

But that decade of cultural optimism was short lived. By the 1970 Osaka Expo, which served as a showcase for the country’s top architectural talents, Metabolism had been practically reduced to a fad, its social agenda stripped of its original meaning.

“All the big concepts were drained of idealism,” Mr. Ito told me as we rode a bullet train through the Japanese countryside on the way to visit one of his buildings. “It was very disappointing for the young generation. It became very hard to have any outward hope about the future.”

This crisis of faith — the sudden awareness of the powerlessness of architects, if not of architecture — was soon followed by a prolonged economic recession, which meant that the kinds of large-scale public commissions available to many postwar architects were gone.Looking for a way forward Mr. Ito was drawn to the work of Kazuo Shinohara, a vocal critic of the Metabolists who believed that if architecture could change the world at all, it would do so not by promoting radical social visions but by creating small, modest spaces to nurture and protect the individual spirit. His houses, mostly build it in the 1960s and 1970s, were conceived as private utopias, with delicate interiors supported by muscular concrete pillars that seemed designed to resist the outside pressures of a corrupting society.

Mr. Ito took this idea to its extreme in 1976 with the White U house, which was organized around a central court and completely shut off from the outside world. Designed for his older sister, whose husband had died of cancer, its seamless white interiors were meant to create an intensely private, therapeutic environment, a place where she could recover from her grief. Only the tops of a few surrounding buildings and utility poles were visible from inside, a gentle reminder that life continued beyond its walls.

But eventually this vision seemed as limiting as the Metabolist’s vision seemed naïve, and Mr. Ito would locate his architecture in the space between two extremes: the social idealism of late Modernism and the inwardness of Shinohara’s work.

His breakthrough came with the Sendai Mediatheque, a library and exhibition space completed in 2001. Seen from a distance the structure looks like a conventional Modernist glass box rising from one of Sendai’s busy, tree-lined boulevards. The first hint of something out of the ordinary is a series of enormous white latticework tubes that pierce the top of the structure, capped by a delicate steel frame. The tubes seem to be arranged in a loose, almost random pattern, and as you get closer, you realize they extend down through the entire structure, connecting the floors. They not only hold up the building, they house elevators, staircases and mechanical systems. Sunlight, reflected from gigantic, computer-controlled mirrors, spills through them during the day, giving the building an ethereal glow.

“The tubes are often compared to trees in a forest,” Mr. Ito told me through a translator as we toured the building. “But they are also like objects in a Japanese garden, where space is created by movement around carefully arranged points, like ponds or stones.”

The idea was to free us, both physically and psychologically, from the rigidity of the grid and what it implies — the Cartesian logic, the erasure of individual identity. But the building is not just an isolated experiment. By echoing the forms of the conventional slab buildings around it and aggressively distorting them, the design suggests how the city too could be made more free and more human.

This vision takes on even greater complexity in the Tama Art University Library, completed just over two years ago, west of Tokyo. Set at the edge of a dreary hillside campus, the structure was conceived as an irregular grid of delicate concrete arches.

When I first saw it, it brought to mind the work of Louis Kahn, who — in an effort to root modern architecture in an ancient past — used classical references to imbue glass, concrete and steel with an aura of historical monumentality. But Mr. Ito’s design turns this idea on its head. The arches that line the library’s exterior vary in width from 6 feet to nearly 50 feet, giving them an offhand, whimsical quality. Windows are set flush to the arches’ concrete surfaces so that the facades have a taut appearance, as if the building had been sealed in shrink wrap.

Inside, the arches are arranged at odd angles to one another. Other structures seem casually placed inside the space — a large concrete drum that houses mechanical systems at one end, a sculptural staircase at another. The floor of an informal exhibition space follows the slope of the surrounding landscape so that from inside, the relationship of the two seems fluid.

The result is a kind of antimonument. The image we hold of a heavy, traditional arch becomes something fragile and ethereal. The classical sense of order dissolves. The design’s aim is to liberate us from the oppressive weight of history and, in the process, open up imaginative possibilities.ince the library’s completion his ambitions have led to a startling range of new designs. The concave roof segments of his recently opened Za-Koenji Public Theater in Tokyo, for instance, are vaguely reminiscent of Shinohara’s House Under High-Voltage Lines (1981). But Mr. Ito’s structure is more animated, reflecting the energy of its bustling working-class site.

Seen from an elevated rail line that passes directly in front of it, the theater’s uneven tentlike form seems to be a result of the forces colliding around it, like speeding trains and arcane zoning requirements. Inside, a wide elliptical staircase at the back corner of the lobby draws people up through the building. Big porthole windows are carved into its roof and walls. It is a simple, inexpensive building, yet its enigmatic form lingers in the imagination and transforms your perception of the neighborhood around it.

The design for the 44,000-seat Kaohsiung stadium, by contrast, seems to be as much about the anxieties of a mass event as about a shared emotional experience. While traditional stadiums are designed to shut out the outside world, Mr. Ito’s stadium seeks to maximize our awareness of it while still creating a sense of enclosure.

From the main entry the stadium looks like a gigantic snake that is just beginning to coil around its prey. Its tail extends to one side, framing a large entry plaza. At times when the stadium is less full, people will be able to stroll through the gates from the plaza and sit on a patch of grass at the edge of the field, eroding the boundary between inside and out.

Inside, the intertwining pipes of the canopy curl down and around the stands, enveloping the audience. And while the immediate surroundings are shut out, most seats have a distant view of downtown. The result is remarkable: a space that manages to maintain the intensity and focus of a grand stadium without that intensity becoming oppressive.

Yet it is in his design for the Taichung opera house, scheduled to go into construction sometime next year, that Mr. Ito comes closest to an ideal he has been chasing for decades: a building that seems to have been frozen in a state of metamorphosis. Set in a landscaped park, the opera house is conceived as a flexible network of interconnected vessels that has been sliced off on four sides to form a rectangular box.

The amorphous forms are not random; their seemingly elastic surfaces grow and shrink according to the functions they house, which include restaurants, foyers, a roof garden and three concert halls that will seat from 200 and 2,000 people. Visitors will find themselves slipping between some of these forms and entering others. The sense of inside and out, of stillness and motion, becomes a complex, carefully composed dance.

It is a striking vision, as beautiful as anything built in the past decade. And it sums up Mr. Ito’s philosophy about both architecture and life, about the need to accommodate the many contradictions that make us human.

It also suggests a way architecture can move forward.

At the beginning of this century the field seemed to have entered a new age of freedom and experimentation. But like everything else, that spirit was quickly subsumed by the competitive greed of the global economy: the money, the real estate speculation, the frantic rush for consumer attention. Designs that were born of joy and exuberance, like Mr. Gehry’s Guggenheim, were treated as marketable commodities, which became a kind of trap.

Seen in that light, the inaccessibility of Mr. Ito’s architecture is a virtue. Hard to pin down, it is also difficult to brand. By embracing ambiguity, his work forces us to look at the world through a wider lens. It asks us to choose the slowly unfolding narrative over the instant fix.

“I sometimes feel that we are losing an intuitive sense of our own bodies,” Mr. Ito lamented at one point during my visit. “Children don’t run around outside as much as they did. They sit in front of computer games. Some architects have been trying to find a language for this new generation, with very minimalist spaces. I am looking for something more primitive, a kind of abstraction that still has a sense of the body.”

“The in between,” he added, “is more interesting to me."

@Source from: http://www.nytimes.com/2009/07/12/arts/design/12ouro.html?pagewanted=1&_r=1&ref=design

台日移民 湯姆克魯斯女兒最愛的童裝@Business

【文/賀桂芬】

今年三月初,湯姆克魯斯偕妻女到里約宣傳新片,湯嫂凱蒂帶著愛女直奔Green專櫃替愛女添裝,新聞登上媒體頭條。

走高價路線的Green和同屬Missako公司旗下的品牌You,是巴西唯二行銷歐洲的高級童裝品牌,時裝界最重要的媒體WGSN甚至將You選為世界五大最佳童裝品牌之一。

這兩個品牌,出自日本移民好子和台灣移民姜金龍之手。好子更是兩個品牌的靈魂人物。

喜歡冒險和善變,好子顛覆所有巴西童裝的傳統。「我們最先用橘色、綠色和黃色等強烈的顏色、大大的花,以及只有成人女裝才用的高級布料。」Green和You看不到一般童裝慣用的卡通和圖案,也不用看起來讓衣服廉價的泡棉。

好子和姜金龍都不是本科出身,做童裝純屬意外。

一九八五年大學畢業後,好子和姜金龍結了婚,苦於各忙各的無法相聚,恰巧姜金龍母親有間店面租不出去,兩人便尋思各自放棄令人稱羡的醫生和建築師工作,開間小店平凡過日子。好子喜歡孩子,提議開童裝店,對成衣業一竅不通的夫婦倆,就這麼一頭栽進童裝世界。

純屬意外的童裝事業

好子發現當時買得到的童裝樣式和質料都很粗糙、不重設計,為正式場合設計的童裝又硬梆梆的,很難穿,「我就想,講究設計、漂亮舒適,居家外出兩相宜的童裝,應該會受歡迎。」

好子從小喜歡塗鴉,於是她重拾畫筆,設計了六款童裝,被一名賣衣服給他們的業務員看到,驚為天人,「他馬上說原來的衣服他不賣了,拜託我們一定要讓他去賣這些衣服。」

這名業務員第一筆訂單就下了三千件,讓好子和姜金龍嚇傻了。「我們三百件都做不出來,他卻要三千件。」姜金龍勸好子別接這筆訂單,但個性好強的好子堅持要接,「我當時心裡很害怕,但還是接了。」兩人這才急忙買縫紉機僱人裁縫。為什麼不找工廠做?答案令人發噱,「我們對製衣業完全不懂,不知道去哪裡找工廠。」

手忙腳亂,第一筆訂單兩個月後總算如期交貨。結果市場反應非常好,「愈賣愈多,訂單愈來愈大。」第二年訂單變成每個月好幾千件,各大百貨公司都打進去了,「哇,做得要命喏,每天早也做晚也做,全年無休。」姜金龍說。

危機悄悄來臨

正當兩人生意愈做愈順,危機卻悄悄來臨。

一九九二年,巴西爆發通貨膨脹,通膨率最高一個月七○%,成本利潤變得很難控制,連續兩年,Missako都處在財務困窘的狀態,兩人幾度想要放棄。

公司缺錢週轉,姜金龍就賣房子,母親給他的三棟房子,「都給我賣掉了。」

九四年通膨一停,錢不再貶值,每個人口袋裡突然間多了三○%的錢,怕通膨又來,民眾拚命買。

「東西一到店裡就被搶光。」通膨一停,所有的企業利潤成長十倍,好光景持續了好幾年,終於讓姜金龍和好子嚐到賺大錢的甜美滋味。

第二次危機,和九一一同時到來。

二○○一年九月初,好子遭歹徒綁架,向姜金龍勒索高額贖金。歹徒將她囚在地下室,「世貿大樓被炸的畫面,就在那兒看到的。」被囚了二十多天後獲釋,兩人卻因好子不滿談判速度而絕裂。

她負氣出走,自創另一品牌You,走與Green的明亮鮮嫩完全不同的大地色系極簡風格,旗下清一色日裔設計師,並標榜用的全是有機棉,走更頂級路線。

You受市場高度肯定,但好子不太管成本效益的隨性個性,經營得相當辛苦。而沒有好子的Green也開始出問題,姜金龍高價請來的設計總監,「不懂Green的個性和靈魂,導致Green的精神在流失。」好子說。

業績雖沒減少,但姜金龍經常到各門市觀察顧客的穿著談吐,發現「內行消費者在流失,顧客階層往下降。」好子和姜金龍終於理解到,夫妻可以不做,但生意上,兩人都少不了對方,「我不懂設計和行銷,她不懂生產,我們合起來剛剛好。」姜金龍說。

兩人分而復合,過去三年將重心花在收復失土上,接下來Missako將全力在巴西和歐洲展開擴張,預計五年內成長至現在的一倍。

Missako
成立:1985年
員工:200人
門市:巴西32家,沙烏地阿拉伯1家,安哥拉1家,並外銷英國及義大利多家精品店。
2008年營收:6.5億台幣
成功配方:用高級女裝的概念設計童裝,打中巴西有錢父母願花大錢讓孩子與眾不同的心態。

@Source from: 天下雜誌 2009.07.15

7.14.2009

垃圾變黃金/發揮創意 咖啡渣做植物染@Innovative

經濟日報╱林婉翎

只要發揮些小創意,巧手猶如仙女棒一揮,能把垃圾變黃金,落實環保精神,也為生活增添樂趣。統一星巴克品牌溝通經理林秀文就是個鮮活實例。

空閒時,她會動手把單面空白的回收紙,裁切至筆記本般大小,再找找衣櫥內不要的舊衣服,量「紙」訂做成布面書套,一本屬於自己獨一無二的隨身小物,就此誕生。

她也把舊物再利用的創意,落實於工作。統一星巴克會把每天店內煮剩的咖啡渣,免費提供顧客帶回家當肥料、除臭。前些日子,林秀文邀請團隊夥伴一同腦力激盪、發揮創意,多用途活用咖啡渣。

找來廢布,剪裁、縫紉成喜歡的樣式,可以變成有濃濃咖啡香的個性化香包;把咖啡渣包在滷包袋中放入熱水烹煮,卡其色的墨水溢出,把淡色布丟入鍋中,可做簡單的植物染;或把咖啡渣裝入不要的曲線型瓶罐中,就多了一個新擺設。

林秀文說,許多人丟棄舊東西,不見得是物品已壞,不堪使用,只是失去對這個東西的新鮮感,只要多點想像,同樣的素材,人人可變出新花樣,巧手把垃圾回收再利用變黃金,成了生活新樂趣,物品也有新生命。

她現在很樂於當個享受綠生活的創意智慧王,最近還想買台裁縫機,以便創意突從天外飛來時,能馬上變換手邊的舊衣花樣,重新再造成實用的生活小物。

@Source from: 【2009/07/14 經濟日報】@ http://udn.com/

Twitter、Plurk、嘀咕,一百四十字的魔力@Trend

微網誌行銷術

一則短訊只能寫一百四十字的微網誌,由於「簡單」,吸引千萬網友加入,而名人加持更推升這股風潮。如此人聲鼎沸的微網誌,也將是今年起不可忽略的行銷戰場。

流行音樂天王麥克傑克森(Michael Jackson)六月底猝逝的消息,不到幾小時,透過微網誌(micro-blogging)的散播,就已傳遍全世界。在全球電視、報紙、雜誌都還來不及處理這則新聞時,微網誌龍頭Twitter,每秒湧進上萬筆包括「Michael Jackson」字眼的討論訊息,讓這則全球音樂迷心碎的消息,迅速傳遍全球網路圈。

在網路最新的發展中,微網誌的快速成長,是最重要的趨勢之一。最知名的美國網站Twitter,已擁有三千兩百萬名使用者,平均每人每天耗費超過十七分鐘,在網站內tweet(網友膩稱Twitter上的訊息,原意為小鳥的叫聲),這股微網誌風潮已襲捲全球,也成為企業行銷的新興平台。

創造更快、更廣的傳播力

微網誌,因其限制使用者每次只能寫一百四十個字的短文而得名,只要互設為好友,就能看到彼此最新的動態更新內容,還能回應、轉貼,讓訊息散布更快。這麼少的字數到底要寫什麼?造就微網誌的第二個核心概念──你正在做什麼?因此初期的微網誌平台架構非常簡單,使用者首頁如同留言板,可訂閱別人的留言板,別人也可訂閱自己的。主要功能僅此,在不斷開發新功能的網路界,吹起另一股「極簡化」的風潮,也為使用方法簡單,而吸引千萬網友加入。

可別小看「一百四十字」加上「你在做什麼」的威力!除了在電腦上使用外,它更適合在手機上閱讀、撰寫文字,可隨時隨地發表,也可閱讀朋友的最新動態。因此,它比電子郵件更即時、互動性更強;朋友間串聯起的網絡,彼此分享、討論、回應,又比即時通訊一對一的模式更容易傳遞訊息。

運用微網誌的經典成功案例,當推美國總統歐巴馬(Barack Obama)的Twitter競選策略。他利用即時特性,刊登每日行程與心得,供粉絲留言強化互動性;最後需要動員時,則是抓緊容易散播的根本特質。目前歐巴馬的Twitter已有高達一百四十九萬人訂閱,朋友數也有七十七萬人,這批人正是將他推上總統大位的死忠粉絲。

當一群人固定在一個地方聚集時,就成為企業行銷的有力平台,微網誌亦然。從對新事物特別敏感的媒體業開始,將其內容連結刊登上平台,以鞏固主要資訊來源的寶座,諸如CNN、《時代》雜誌等,都註冊微網誌帳號。

對其他行業來說,最常見的行銷手法則是發布官方公告或促銷訊息,如美國星巴克、西南航空(Southwest Airlines)等。其中成果最豐碩的,莫過於電腦大廠戴爾(Dell),它光是在Twitter靠其中一個過季品帳號,就在兩年內創造兩百萬美元的銷售佳績。

至於微網誌行銷在台灣市場可行嗎?關鍵點在於微網誌社群是否成形。全球最大的Twitter,缺少中文化版本,即使再簡單也不夠親民,在台灣不算風行。至於晚Twitter一年架設的台灣本土微網誌Buboo巴布,僅在初期吸引嘗鮮網友一窩蜂加入,但卻後繼無力。

而去年九月台灣最大的部落格平台──無名小站,也推出名為「嘀咕」的微網誌服務。無名小站指出,至今平均站內每三位使用者就有一位使用過該功能。嘀咕的使用情形,由部落格平台推出,與部落格主體就會很相關,其應用比較像是部落格格主在發布網誌之餘,與讀者保持聯絡的管道,以嘀咕為經營主體的網友較少。

名人加持打造Plurk熱潮

另外,近來在台灣網路圈暴紅的微網誌Plurk(暱稱噗浪),則是在「一百四十字」與「你在做什麼」之外,發展出「圖像化時間軸」、「點數」(Karma值)、「主題式回覆留言」等特點。再加上彎彎、酪梨壽司、史丹利、重灌狂人等人氣部落客參與,還有使用者阿潼與人夫,兩人見一面就定終身的故事,讓Plurk名氣暴增。根據創市際ARO五月份資料顯示,Plurk到達率為七.八二%,比起一月份的一.四九%,成長率高達四二四%,平均使用時間高達五十六分鐘,擴張速度驚人。並且已有許多企業在Plurk上進行微網誌行銷。

目前在Plurk開帳號的企業,包括瀏覽器Opera、線上遊戲《極速快感Online》、網路書店博客來等,另外還有民進黨團、國民黨青年團,企業與政治團體紛紛加入Plurk。行銷手法最多的仍是刊登企業公告、促銷訊息,目的是「在人多的地方,拿著大聲公攬客」,將網友拉回自家網站。

微網誌行銷在美國已風行三年,台灣市場囿於網站語言版本及風氣不盛,微網誌社群成形較晚。但今年起,隨著話題不斷,可想見微網誌熱潮將不斷升高。而就行銷效果──可以接觸到多少目標族群而言,人聲鼎沸的微網誌,將是今年起不可忽略的行銷戰場。

微網誌帶來下一個網路革命

黏著度高的微網誌平台,因它的即時性、方便分享訊息的傳播功能,以及朋友間現況交流而成就的社交網絡,將帶來現今網路產業的轉變。首當其衝的是以資訊領先而存在的媒體產業,過去媒體價值之一,「權威消息」的角色正在淡出。

其次是降低當今網路核心「搜尋引擎」的重要性。過往在網路上以關鍵字搜尋,所得到的結果可能是成千上萬筆資料,使用者還得花時間去整理,但在微網誌上,搜尋結果則可能是朋友的討論內容、分享的網頁連結,讓人更快找到所需的資訊。另外,目前網路廣告購買價格以點擊率、瀏覽量計價,但透過微網誌做廣告,恐怕該以帳號朋友、粉絲數量計價,將改變網路廣告產業。

值得注意的是,《時代》雜誌指出,微網誌平台開創迄今,已發展出龐大、複雜的社群架構,它的創新動力來自於使用者──用戶型創新(end-user innovation)。不論是跟隨者結構、即時訊息搜尋、第三方應用程式開發等,都是圍繞著使用經驗而發展出來,其實是使用者主導了微網誌的價值。

@Source from:數位時代 2009.07.14

An Architect Puts Bach in a Musical Cocoon@Arch

ean-Guihen Queyras plays one of Bach’s cello suites at a specially designed space at the Manchester Art Gallery.

Published: July 13, 2009

MANCHESTER, England — A rewarding experiment in creating an ideal space to hear some of Bach’s most intimate music — the solo suites for piano, for cello and for violin — is taking place here at the Manchester International Festival. Zaha Hadid Architects was commissioned by the festival to take a top-floor exhibition room at the Manchester Art Gallery and turn what is basically a big black box into an acoustically and visually perfect place for performances of the Bach works.

When the festival opened on July 3 (before I arrived), the Polish pianist Piotr Anderszewski played three programs offering three solo keyboard suites. On Saturday night, for the second installment in this series, I heard the elegant French cellist Jean-Guihen Queyras play four of Bach’s six solo cello suites in this specially conceived environment.

Working with Sandy Brown Associates, an acoustical company, the team from Zaha Hadid has temporarily created a space within a space. Like an enormous, puffy ribbon, a long span of translucent off-white fabric with an inner metal skeleton twirls down from the ceiling in expanding circles, until it nearly surrounds the low platform stage and the seating area for some 200 listeners. The fabric, which undulates against the metal frame, both absorbs and deflects the sound. Clear acrylic acoustical panels, blended seamlessly into the overall design, hover over the stage area to further diffuse the sound.

Sitting in the enclosure was like hearing music from inside a supersize conical seashell. Between the gaps in the ribbon you could see the black gallery walls, so the effect was to create a sort of safe listening enclave within a much larger room.

In a program note Zaha Hadid, founding partner of the firm that bears her name, writes that she and her associates tried to articulate the “rhythmic and harmonic range” that Bach achieved “within the mathematical framework” of his music by exploring “a coherent integration of formal and structural logic.” I will have to take her word on this. All I know is that the space was a delight to be in and that the music sounded up-close and exceptionally vibrant.

Mr. Queyras has made a specialty of solo works for cello from all periods. Last year Harmonia Mundi released his recording of the six Bach suites, and he often performs them in conjunction with contemporary music.

In the more quick-paced dance movements from the suites, he played with rhapsodic flair, taking expressive liberties to highlight harmonic twists and asymmetrical phrases in the music, while allowing the lilt of the dances to come through with zest and naturalness. I especially enjoyed the noble, searching way he shaped the phrases of the ruminative movements, like the Sarabande of the First Suite in G. His account of the Third Suite, in C, was remarkable, especially his bold rendering of the final Gigue, with its curiously jagged theme and fractured phrases.

As an encore he played a short piece by the Hungarian master Gyorgy Kurtag called “Faith,” in which a somberly pensive thematic line goes through passing fits on its way to a resigned conclusion. It made me eager to hear Mr. Queyras play his programs juxtaposing Bach and the moderns.

The Bach/Zaha Hadid series concludes on Wednesday, Thursday and Saturday with the violinist Alina Ibragimova playing a program of Bach’s solo sonatas and partitas at the Manchester Art Gallery; mif.co.uk.

@Source from: http://www.nytimes.com/2009/07/14/arts/music/14bach.html?_r=1&ref=design

曾旭正:幸福建築緣起@People

曾旭正:幸福建築緣起

建築、建築人
卅年前我進入建築系,成大老系館的學習氣氛就是有辦法讓新生很快地建立起身份認同──「我是建築人」。不只因為每日進出那棟偏處校園一隅較有設計感的系 館,更有設計課、評圖乃至繪畫課等特殊課程,以及必修的色彩學課後大伙穿著自已蠟染T恤出遊的經驗,或者使用印著系徽的透光草圖紙…大大小小、特殊或者慣 常,都是生活中建構建築人認同的素材。在六校聯誼時,這認同又再一次確証,甚至在與其他五校互動時還突顯出「成大建築」這個縮小範圍但更有力道的認同感。

可是,建構起身份認同之後呢?建築是什麼?建築人的任務是什麼?
透由建築概論課、師長言談乃至雜誌閱讀,年輕時的我們揣摩、想像、 摸索著,不曾有過明確的答案。在建築概論課記得的一句話是:「建築師的任務在於為人類創造美好的環境」,這句話後來也曾在某個建築師公會的會議室牆上看到 過。而杜甫的名言:「安得廣廈千萬間,大庇天下寒士俱歡顏」也是跨越時空的提醒;記得大約是1981年左右的課中,某老曾憂心道:「愈來愈興盛的房地產會 搞慘建築師,傷害台灣的建築專業」。當時不甚了解其意,但專業使命感油然而生!

卅年來,台灣的建築景氣起落了幾番,我們也在建築科系裡教書十多年,不時仍會思索那根本的問題:建築所為何事?建築所為,何是?

建築,所為何事?
建築是社會的產物,同時也是時代的產物,這是社會學的ABC,但身為社會小分子的建築人總無法深刻地體會。不過,活生生的近代台灣建築發展就是最好的教 材。戰後至1960年代前,處於政治盤整期的台灣,不論公部門或民間幾乎沒有建設投資,建築師的專業也還在蘊釀期,靠數量很少的幾位大陸來台的建築師獨撐 著。這時期,僅有的案例幾乎都是公共建築。1960年代隨著台灣經濟起飛,建築業也快速發展起來,成為反映經濟成長同時又促進經濟發展的重要力量。自此時 起,建築師的業務同時來自公共建設與民間的房地產投資。不僅建築師的業務漸增,培養建築技術人才的建築科系也明顯增加,此番榮景一直維持到1980年代 末。

1970至1990年代中期的二十五年是台灣建築發展的鼎盛時期,這時期的建築人在取得執照之後,幾乎都可以順利開業,在都會區承接動軋數十億的建築案輕 而易舉。然而,台灣的房地產風潮十分生猛,其背後的力量主要由「預售制」所催動,但這正是傷害建築專業的一大惡力。由於預售,建築師遂被隔絕無法與使用者 接觸;由於預售,所以廣告行銷成為影響銷售成績的關鍵而非建築師,廣告言詞遠比好的設計來得重要;由於預售,在建築物未完工前即可能一再被轉售,交換價值 凌駕使用價值,建築物不只成為商品,也是昂貴的籌碼;由於預售,某些建築師被廣告商塑造為大師,但從來不是因他們的設計創造了什麼新的價值,只是廣告包裝 所需,大師成為商標的一部份,但商標並不保障品質。

高峰的二十五年,建築師被捲入商品炒作的風潮中無法自拔,這經歷也形成了台灣對建築師這個專業的看法,。2006年四月,建築改革社成立之初曾在網路作了 一項調查,其中有一題詢問民眾對於建築師這個行業的印象,在五個選項中,回答建築師就是:「蓋房子很賺錢的建商」佔29.59%,是「申請建照的繪圖師」 佔27.79%,是「改善環境的專業者」佔15.33%,「講究個人品味的設計師」佔9.51%,「沒什麼特別的」佔17.79%。一般大眾對建築師如此 陌生,甚至視同建商,不知建築人作何感想?

建築所為,何是?
台灣的建築專業,不論業界或學界,現今都陷於泥淖之中,自知不符專業的標準,但又無法自拔。
在業界,不論設計業務來源為公部門或民間建設公司,一般而言都缺乏良善的執業條件,不易生產出好的設計。在民間開發方面,如前段所說的,在預售制下,銷售 公司比建築師重要,廣告策略自也比設計品質受到重視,建築師的設計能力當然少有發揮的機會。在公共建築方面,雖然計畫書較能照顧公共利益,但因為公部門對 建築品質的觀念尚處於啟蒙階段,好的業主十分難得,相關法令與契約也都還有很大的改進空間。投身公共建築的專業者常有不如歸去之歎,有些建築師甚至自始即 決絕不碰公共建築。

如果說,面對如此惡劣的現實條件,業界的建築師是無奈地掙扎著;那學界呢?學界可說是疏離地、怯懦地逃避著。在學院中,不斷地再生產著以「設計」為中心的 課程、價值觀,讓設計凌駕其他而成為建築專業的代名詞,其結果卻是訓練出一批批得了偏食症的圖象生產者。在設計課中,缺乏真實經驗的教師共同建構出一個漂 浮於空中或虛擬於數位的平台,藉由最新的雜誌作品傳播遙遠國度的福音。言談中,總高舉「創意」作令箭,師生誤以為「與眾不同就是創意」「為不同而不擇手段 就是設計」。於是乎,課堂中的設計好手就是敏感於當令雜誌之流行語彙的捕手,建築系不自覺地成為鸚鵡學舌的訓練所。

不論業界或學界,面臨的困境不在於:已走上正確的道路,但目標太遠、路途太險!而是,我們甚至還不知道自己踏在什麼樣的路上,只感覺一片迷霧茫然,腳下究 竟是地是崖,毫無把握,但又不願意停下腳步,搞清楚自己的所在。迷茫中忙著挪移腳步,唯一肯定的其實是否定當下:「我不知道目標在那裡,但我知道不是這 裡!」。

原點思考
緩慢變化的集體性困境總讓人想起「溫水煮蛙」的寓言。在冷水鍋中放入活生生的青蛙,雖然鍋下點著小火,但青蛙悠游水中,感覺不到水溫漸升,一旦察覺時已經 無力跳出,終究被煮熟了;相反的,如果把青蛙丟進溫熱的水中,它必定立即跳出,不至於成為桌上佳餚。這個寓言的進一步思考是:冷水中的青蛙如何能看清楚自 己所在的大環境呢?看到不只是水,還有水底下的鍋子,乃至更底下的爐火?身為全視的讀者,我們可以很輕易地說出答案是:跳出來!但身陷其中的小小蛙,不僅 不可能看到這情境,甚至無法從自己的經驗中得出水溫被慢慢升高的殘酷事實呢!

現今的建築人,不論業界或學界,都不滿意當前的表現,但我們是否有足夠的智慧來看到自己的處境?我們有沒有勇氣與智慧來重新思考原點的問題,譬如:在人類社會中,建築應該發揮何種作用?在當前社會中,建築的這個角色如何達成?在這進路中,建築師如何作為?

建築之於人類,已經不再是工程技術的問題,亦即如何讓建築物建得堅固、耐用,早已不是問題,困難反而在於資源分配不均。全球許多地方有過多的資金投注於建 築,但更多地方則十分貧困,無法確保人民有一間安穩、清潔的居室。建築人是否想過:對於人類住屋資源不均的問題,自己可以做些什麼?

建築之於當前人類浮現出一道嶄新的問題,一般以為那是技術課題,但其實是道德、生命哲學以及社會工程的問題,那就是「永續環境」。人類如何在滿足自己的居 住需求、營生活動的過程中,共同努力以一種健康的生活方式,對於環境儘可能地降低衝擊。由此觀念切入,觸及更多深刻的問題值得探討:建築與環境道德的關 係?人與其他生物如何共存?科技如何適當運用?建築如何有利於此種健康生活方式的形成?在促成健康生活方式中,建築師可以扮演什麼角色?

這是那裡?往那裡去?
自十八世紀工業革命以來,二百多年間人類經歷了快速發展的年代,在二十世紀末才因著自然環境的反撲而有機會檢視過去的軌跡。雖然不知道是否為時已晚,但至 少人類已經覺察到許多以往認為理所當然的觀念或作法是錯的,譬如:「大量生產、大量消費」的觀念、運用化肥農藥來增加農業產量的作法、鼓勵小汽車成長的城 市發展模式、推崇物質享受而輕視心靈成長、講究個人享受而忽視群體價值等等。廿一世紀初,席捲全世界的金融風暴方興未艾,更進一步在「貨幣」這種人造的工 具上發生連鎖性的大規模崩潰,也可視為提醒人類從物質主義回頭的重要警訊。

在二十世紀晚期,有許多從個人經驗超脫而看到新未來的人們相信這是一個新舊時代交替的當頭,他們自稱或被稱為「新時代運動者」(New Age)。他們普遍相信,從1997年1月24日起,太陽系由雙魚座進入寶瓶座,一個歷時兩千年的寶瓶時代(Aquarian Age)正式揭開序幕:人類將由注重物質的雙魚座時代,進入一個強調心靈探索、精神修養的新時代。新時代運動者因此主張,在寶瓶時代中,人類對於長期忽略 的自我心靈,將產生前所未有的關注,並透過修行,進一步參悟群我、宇宙的深刻聯結;對於過去未知的事物及信仰,可以用科學邏輯來加以解秘。

對於新時代運動者的主張,我們毋需視之為預言而追究它的真實性,何妨視之為一種願景,作為努力的目標。因此我們要思考的是:在一個比較不重物質而重視心 靈、重視群我、關心環境的社會中,建築的新角色是什麼?建築師可以為人類的心靈成長、群我合作、環境和諧貢獻些什麼?在這個新的時代中,建築的新價值是什 麼?

邁向幸福建築
是的,我的主張是「幸福」,很低調、平易、簡單,卻也很基本的一項價值。我想宣揚幸福作為新時代建築專業努力的願景──期望建築師能成為幫助業主、使用者 獲得幸福的人,建築人致力於經營建築的過程,讓參與者從中體會幸福、積集福報。幸福沒有絕對的標準,也不是靜態的獲得;而是相對的滿足,過程的體悟。建築 作為一種庇護的元素,先天就有它促進幸福的潛力,新時代的建築人應該開展建築的這些潛力。
幸福或許有許多界定方式,也有許多促成的途徑,但根本的源頭是什麼?法王達賴喇嘛主張幸福的根本源頭乃是「利他」:「利他的思想乃是人世間利益與幸福的真 正源頭」。「他」泛指自我之外的一切眾生,包括其他人以及其他生命。進一步思考更可發現這是人類獨有的:「人之所以不同於其他生物,在於人能夠在運用智能 的同時保有對於同類仁愛、和睦、坦誠的品行」。因此,達賴剌嘛強調,履行利他乃是人性價值的至高實現。
建築與建築師如何利他?依著對象不同、過程不同,可以概述如下:

當「他」是業主或使用者時,乾淨、舒服、價廉、有意義是重要的課題;而營造的過程則突顯出合作、手感的重要性。當「他」是指環境或大自然時,共生、自然、乾爽是重點,而其手法則要求節約、在地等價值。

因此,我們說幸福建築乃是乾淨的建築、舒服的建築、價廉的建築、有意義的建築、合作的建築、手感的建築、共生的建築、自然的建築、乾爽的建築、節約的建築和在地的建築。未來且依序述說…

娜姊全球巡演 紀梵希、BrooksBrothers衣起舞@Fashion

瑪丹娜巡演,舞群穿Brooks Brothers 的改良式燕尾服襯衫。
圖/迪生提供

聯合報╱記者陶福媛

目前正在全球舉辦「Sticky and Sweet」巡迴演唱會的天后瑪丹娜,不但在表演時向去世的麥可傑克森致敬,同時也恰巧選擇穿上麥可生前喜愛的紀梵希Givenchy訂製服,至於她身旁 的舞者群則穿上代表美式時尚的Brooks Brothers改良式燕尾服襯衫。

除了Givenchy外,美國經典品牌Brooks Brothers也與瑪丹娜合作,為舞者群設計一系列改良式的黑白色系燕尾服襯衫。

負責瑪丹娜舞台造型的美國新銳 服裝設計師Arianne Phillips,以黑白色系的美式爵士風情打造演唱會的時尚氛圍,她選用Brooks Brothers經典Slim-fit系列襯衫。


@Source from: 【2009/07/12 聯合報】@ http://udn.com/

荷蘭創意建築 「殖民」全世界@Arch

MVRDV在台灣打造的「垂直村落」,在一排老公寓上放上彩色小屋。
MVRDV/提供
MVRDV設計的老人公寓,每戶都擁有色彩鮮豔的透明玻璃陽台,讓老人擁有美麗的黃昏風景。
MVRDV/提供

聯合報╱本報記者陳宛茜

從麥肯諾的衛武營、UN Studio的高雄大立精品店、庫哈斯的台北藝術中心,到MVRDV的垂直村落……短短兩年間,荷蘭便有四件建築作品成功「殖民」台灣,成為台灣最紅的國 際建築名牌。荷蘭和台灣都是小國、地狹人稠、傳統建築資源不足。為什麼荷蘭建築可以迅速崛起、揮軍世界?

荷蘭當紅建築團體MVRDV,上周來台舉辦「未來城市:MVRDV建築動畫與影像展」。這是台灣第一次舉辦以荷蘭為主題的建築展。

跨界合作 群體作戰

台灣人對荷蘭建築並不陌生。這兩年,荷蘭人先後拿下台灣南北兩個藝術中心的設計權。去年底,UN Studio設計的大立精品店在高雄落腳;MVRDV的建築實驗「垂直村落」,則預計在秋天為台北灰暗的老公寓畫上一抹彩虹。

荷蘭建築不只進軍台灣,打新世紀開始,荷蘭建築一如17世紀船堅砲利的荷蘭艦隊,在世界各地攻城略池、建立殖民地。

MVRDV是集合三位創辦建築師的名字縮寫而成。MVRDV、West 8、UN Studio……這些荷蘭建築團體的名字乍看宛如搖滾樂團,一點都不像建築事務所該有的名字。

光名字就可嗅出荷蘭建築的特色─年輕、創意、強調群體作戰、跨界組合。

建築動畫 刺激想像

最早打破創作界線,將建築設計與漫畫、普普藝術等年輕人文化充分結合的,應屬60年代的英國建築團體Archigram。然而在網路時代將其發揚光大的,卻是荷蘭。

「動畫(film)對建築相當重要!」MVRDV主持建築師Winy Maas 認為,建築動畫可以刺激人們對建築的想像力。早在Youtube出現前,MVRDV便開始為他們的設計案做動畫影片;十年來,MVRDV累積了上百件建築 動畫影片。不可否認,這是影音時代最強的行銷利器。

庫哈斯為北京中央電視台製作的建築動畫更是大手筆。這段四分鐘的動畫,據說耗資台幣400萬,其中以超音速穿過「大褲衩」的一幕,震撼不輸給好萊塢動畫大片。

幾百年來,荷蘭人填海造陸,不斷與自然爭鬥,創造新的空間。因此荷蘭建築充滿生氣勃勃的想像力,沒有歐洲建築的保守與老氣。

外型驚豔 綻放幽默

MVRDV作品「老人公寓」,雖是為獨居老人設計的公共住宅,卻充滿了蓬勃朝氣。每戶都有五顏六色的透明玻璃陽台,讓銀髮族眺望的黃昏風景,也是一片彩色世界。

麥肯諾事務所為海港城高雄設計的衛武營,宛如「游動中的魚」的外型讓台灣人驚豔。他們為荷蘭台夫特大學設計的圖書館,展現的幽默更讓人絕倒。

這座圖書館的屋頂連到地面形成一個陡坡、正中央放上一個圓錐體,就像一座小山。這座「小山圖書館」夏天是如茵草坡、冬天則是滑雪勝地,在校園裡創造了一個媲美自然的人造地景。

荷蘭五分之三的土地處於海平面以下,土質特別鬆軟,建築物隨時可能陷入、消失。荷蘭建築師比其他地方的建築師,更早否定了永恆的必要性。庫哈斯的名言便是:「建築不存在於過去與未來,只存在於現在。」

MVRDV來台做都市研究時,最吸引他們的不是台北101,而是隨時都會消失的台灣樣品屋。他們和忠泰建築合作的「垂直村落」,模仿樣品屋的模式,在一排 即將拆毀的老公寓上蓋起五顏六色的展覽館,展示學生的研究成果。展期結束,這些「樣品屋」便會隨腳下老屋一起灰飛煙滅,不在乎天長地久。

務實節省 創造空間

惡劣的自然環境鍛練出荷蘭人務實、節省的個性。嘲笑荷蘭人小氣的笑話在歐洲滿天飛,如出把用過的衛生紙拿出來晒、蒐集昨天剩菜變成今天的主菜等。

這在建築設計上未必是壞事。庫哈斯設計的台北藝術中心,業主原本只要求三個表演廳,庫哈斯卻有本領在面積不變的條件下,多生一個表演廳出來。MVRDV設計的老人公寓,也是以懸空量體,幫業主無中生有、「憑空」創造了13戶的空間。

17世紀海外殖民的經驗,讓荷蘭特別關心族群問題。對他們來說,建築不是隔離族群的「牆」,卻是打破界線的利器。庫哈斯設計的台北藝術中心,便以半露天開放空間,嘗試融合夜市食客與音樂會藝文人口。

這種「打破族群界線」的觀念,在MVRDV的「養豬城市(Pig City)」中,獲得最徹底的實踐。

人豬共居 破除界線

荷蘭是歐盟國家中最大的豬肉出口國,法律卻規定豬舍必須與民居保持數公里的距離。MVRDV認為,做為人類重要的食物,豬不該被隔離於人類的生活之外。

因此,MVRDV在2000年設計了「養豬城市」,透過一種防臭、防塵的玻璃,把將豬舍置於摩天大樓中,都市人也可透過玻璃牆,近距離觀察豬的生活形態。

可別以為這是建築師的異想天開,去年海牙市政府便邀請MVRDV著手落實「養豬城市」,好讓一位擁有400頭豬的主人,帶著豬一起搬進海牙,一圓「人豬共居城市」的夢想。

@Source from: 【2009/07/12 聯合報】@ http://udn.com/

7.11.2009

Serpentine Gallery pavilion by SANAA@Arch

July 8th, 2009

serp-12_sq1.jpg

Here are the first official photos of this year’s Serpentine Gallery Pavilion in Kensington Gardens, London, designed by Japanese designers SANAA.

serp-10_sq1.jpg

The surrounding park is reflected in the temporary structure’s aluminium roof, which is shaped to curve around trees on the site and varies in height.

serp-12.jpg

Curved walls made of transparent acrylic surround a cafe and auditorium under this canopy. The pavilion opens to the public on Sunday and will remain in place until 18 October. Photographs are by Luke Hayes.

serp-10.jpg

A program of events called Park Nights will be hosted in the auditorium including performances, talks and screenings, and culminating in the Serpentine Gallery Poetry Marathon in October.

See our previous story for more details about this project. See also Dezeen’s top ten stories about pavilions.

More Dezeen stories about Serpentine Pavilions:

Serpentine Pavilion 2008 by Frank Gehry
Serpentine pavilion 2007 by Olafur Eliasson and Snøhetta
Lilas (temporary pavilion 2007) by Zaha Hadid



Posted by Rose Etherington

@Source from:

Dezeen architecture and design magazine

7.07.2009

時尚瘋科技 LV、MJ推出專屬行動條碼@Fashion

LV與村上隆推出的行動條碼,繽紛可愛。
圖/LV提供

聯合報╱記者陳若齡

網路行銷成為近年精品所趨,在日本因3G手機及行動上網普及,不少精品和潮牌都推出QR Code(Quick Response Code),融入創意與趣味設計,成為拉近年輕人的利器。

QR Code又稱行動條碼,只要將可照相手機鏡頭對準這種條碼,手機就會連結至特定網站,但必須要手機附有此功能,因行動條碼在日本使用極為普遍,因此不少品牌都會針對日本市場設計條碼。

如潮牌BAPE與ZOZOTOWN合作推出專屬的BAPE人猿頭行動條碼,精品龍頭LV今年初則出過由村上隆和SET JAPAN企畫設計的行動條碼,可愛的貓熊與繽紛Monogram,為原本黑白的條碼增添色彩與趣味性,該條碼可連接至日本LV官網。

同屬LVMH集團的Marc by Marc Jacobs也於7月推出極具品牌特色的行動條碼,同樣融入可愛風格,由品牌知名角色Miss Marc(馬克小姐)擔綱演出,還特別運用手繪質感,更顯別致。


@Source from: 【2009/07/07 聯合報】@ http://udn.com/

7.05.2009

自成一格的柏林時尚@Fashion

柏林自1日至5日舉辦「春夏時尚周」。模特兒在一場別開生面的地鐵走秀中展示Savage Wear的服裝。
法新社

流行時尚這些字眼一向只可能與倫敦巴黎米蘭等城市掛鉤,怎麼可能會是柏林?沒錯,就是柏林。德國首善之城這些年來湧進了大批人才,目前已有600名服裝設計師進駐,難怪聯合國文教組織在年前便封給柏林一個新名號:設計之城。

德國許多大學的服裝系也由原來的杜塞道夫轉設於柏林,新增的服裝設計系或研究所也有好幾家,在政府的補助下,服裝設計系不斷擴充著名的師資,是政府培養人才的計畫之一,從2005年起,僅在師資的補助,每年有9,000萬新台幣。

這幾天便是柏林的時尚周。參展的德國設計師多半個人風格強烈,手工或者小成本製作,這些品牌在德國境內沒人穿,可是在一些國家如日本韓國卻已是搶手貨,許多日本藝人最愛穿柏林前衛服裝設計師的作品,原因是穿像亞曼尼那樣名牌怕撞衫,穿這些柏林設計師的衣服就不會。

一家叫c.neeon的品牌不但在日本非常有名,且在25國皆有分店,從巴拿馬賣到冰島,二位設計師拉斯寇華和舒茲在日本簡直被捧成大師中的大師,而二位 在德國皆無人聞問,「因為德國人對色彩繽紛的衣服很難接受」,幾年前他們在北方海港漢堡開店,業績說多糟就有多糟,但自從搬到柏林後,他們又活過來了。

他們說,德國一般給國外人士的感覺是嚴謹有加,因此德國服裝品牌一開始很難打開市場,但是逐漸的,柏林之城的大膽和前衛融合了進來,卻意外造就柏林時尚特色。

Anuschka Hoevener是另一個在日本大受歡迎的德國品牌,但在境內一樣很多人不認識。還有一家叫la la berlin的品牌基本上也只做外銷,無法內銷。

即使如此,德國服裝設計師還是全來到了柏林,造就了這統一後的雙城風格,設計師多半很年輕,也十分敢衝撞,用的材質和圖案很敢突破,像成衣小子Stephan Schneider前幾年便被捧為英國「龐克教母」Vivienne Westwood的接班人,也住在柏林。

日本成衣業界對流行靈敏度很高,對柏林服飾的品味很對味,因此,這些年來已經知道遊戲規則,很多業者自己多半搭機到柏林來挑,搶個先機,帶動流行,一年一度的柏林時尚周因此老是有很多日本人在會場走動。

不過,柏林的服裝設計師雖多,要在此地成名並不容易,且許多人紅了一季,下一季就被淘汰,因此,撰寫「時尚柏林」一書的Nadine Barth便說,沒有兩把刷子,要來柏林闖天下,還真不容易。另外,這位觀察家也說了,柏林時尚風格特色是前衛和多元,但要說出具體風格,時機還不成熟, 只是比起巴黎米蘭更為另類,自成一格。

而前衛柏林或另類柏林的時尚潮流愈來愈盛大了。

@Source from:

【2009/07/05 聯合報】@ http://udn.com/

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