Donna Karan and Dominic Kozerski Wallpaper*: What is the relationship between architecture and fashion, for you?
Donna Karan: I love architecture – I feel so at home on building sites – so it was an incredibly important influence on me when I started both Donna Karan and DKNY. I wanted the stores to be industrial and raw-looking – like an undressed stage, or like a Robert Wilson blacked-out set. I wanted people to feel that they were outside even when they were inside. And, of course, architecture can work like fashion. Take Zaha Hadid, for example; her work has a real flow to it, as if it was a building cut on the bias.
W*: Do you have a favourite building?
DK: To be honest, I am not always very keen on the very modern. That is why I love buildings such as Dia:Beacon (by OpenOffice), with its mix of old and new.
W*: What sort of architecture do you think reflects your aesthetic?
DK: I love work that is organic and sensual. That is why I adore the stone sculptor Izumi Masatoshi. For similar reasons, an architect I am very impressed with at the moment is Shigeru-Ban. I adore his natural aesthetic.
W*: What were your reasons for selecting Dominic Kozerski?
DK: I met Dominic when he was working with Peter Merino, and our professional relationship rapidly became a partnership. When he was working with me on my apartment, he first built a full-scale model on site as a mock-up. It was so beautiful I wanted to move in and live in the model.
W*: Have you done any other projects together?
DK: He is currently working on the mini-compound I am building in Parrot Cay in the Turks and Caicos.
W*: What is your favourite city?
DK: Paris. It has such a feminine energy. I love the light, and light is so important to me. But then, of course, I will always love New York.
W*: How difficult is it to combine your vision with that of someone whose vision may be equally strong?
Dominic Kozerski: In our view, the architects’ vision is essential to any project, but the client’s primary insight is a fundamental basis for that vision. If that insight is strong, that usually develops the project into one that is intensely personal to and customized around the client. This is true also when we are collaborating with a designer from another field such as fashion; the starting point of view can differ so greatly but if the goal is the same, the results can be very inspiring and ultimately unique.
W*: Does fashion interest you?
Dominic Kozerski: Being ‘fashionable’ does not. However fashion and the fashion industry can be a fascinating blend of art and business that finds inspiration in many, sometimes unlikely, fields that in turn influence other design disciplines, including architecture.
W*: Have many fashion ‘innovators’ helped advance public perception of architecture?
Dominic Kozerski: Architecture has become part of the elements that significant fashion brands need to have to be validated. It can be used to promote and market a brand in terms of ‘buzz’ and image. However at the same time there can often be a struggle between the dominance of the design qualities of a space and the product that will be sold in the space. Some fashion innovators have allowed architects to develop concepts and ideas that would not be considered commercially viable or even possible for other types of public spaces. Perhaps ultimately stores will sell architecture?
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