4.02.2010

Pierre Cardin: 60 Years and Counting@Fashion

"Pierre Cardin: 60 Years of Innovation" is a monument to the French designer's oeuvre. Written by his long-term collaborator Jean-Pascal Hesse, the book vividly illustrates Mr. Cardin's career through images of colorful circle furniture and visionary zippered-jersey masculine sportswear.
In the 1960's, Mr. Cardin created dresses iconic of the space age: square-cut to free the body with circular cut-outs and satellite sleeves, aviator helmets, miniskirts and colorful hose. His landmark Cosmos collection of 1964, with tunic and hose for both men and women, was a confident statement about unisex clothing and anticipated the masculine/feminine fashion standoff that dominated the second half of the 20th century.
Photo: Archives Pierre Cardin
Mr. Cardin hoped his designs would express physical and mental emancipation for women. "My way was to draw something of the future — to be young, to see that a woman could be free," he said. "I wanted to give women in the 1960's a chance to work, to sit, to take the car and drive in my dresses."
Photo: Archives Pierre Cardin
Though Mr. Cardin's fashion training began in haute couture, he was never comfortable in the shell of couture gentility. "When I started 60 years ago, the fashion I was drawing was something strange — people said I was crazy and they never wanted to wear my clothes," he said.
Photo: Archives Pierre Cardin
Mr. Cardin was considered a maverick and an outsider. The designer was criticized for creating furniture that looked as though it were extruded from a space ship (although he explains that he would "buy the tree, cut the wood and make the drawing") and berated for building an empire on licenses for anything from men's shirts to a frying pan.
Photo: Archives Pierre Cardin
Even now, in his late 80s, Mr. Cardin's aim is always to appeal to the next generation, and today's young designers seem to be catching up with his style. Louise Goldin, a London-based designer, found influence in a Cardin image for her autumn 2010 collection (shown here). "It is beautiful and it still looks so futuristic — and that is the way I have been working," said Ms. Goldin. "I like to challenge myself. There were a lot of elements of 3-D. But that is the moment we are in. His images still look so incredibly modern."
Photo: Catwalking.com

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